The frozen foods aisle is full of credible mock meats
Grocery stores suddenly have faux burgers and meatballs galore. We asked our chief food critic to taste-test some of the Canadian-made options
By Mark Pupo| Photography by Vicky Lam
| November 7, 2019
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1. Gusta Artisanal Vegan Wheat Sausage
The secret ingredient is maple syrup, and that’s the scent that fills the room when they’re in the skillet. But aside from a few flakes of apple that are meant to evoke fat globules, there’s little about them that’s sausage-like. It’s like biting into a savoury, tube-shaped bread pudding. That’s the taste of wheat gluten and nutritional yeast—not the best way to start the day. $7.49. Fiesta Farms, 200 Christie St., 416-537-1235.
Could they fool a carnivore? NO
2. Sol Meatless Meatballs, Greek Moussaka-flavoured
The secret behind the meatless products at the Middle Eastern chain Paramount Fine Foods is Sol Cuisine, a Mississauga manufacturer of plant-based fake meats. The most uncannily meat-like is this moussaka meatball, which both looks exactly like a meatball (each ball is slightly misshapen, like they were handmade, and covered with ridges as if they were actually ground chuck) and tastes like one, with a mouthfeel (an awful foodie word, but important here) and flavour somewhere between well-spiced beef and fresh lamb. $12. Fiesta Farms, 200 Christie St., 416-537-1235.
Could they fool a carnivore? YES
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3. Lightlife Plant-based Tenders, Veggie Chick’n
With a quick fry, they colour like breaded chicken fingers. And if you eat them fast enough, their texture is freakishly akin to a rubbery McNugget. Their main ingredients are wheat gluten, soy protein and water, but what you’ll mostly taste is a sharp, slightly sweet dry rub of mustard, salt and cane sugar. $5.99. Loblaws, multiple locations.
Could they fool a carnivore? NO
4. Yam Chops’ Korean BBQ Beef
This College West shop, which bills itself as a “plant-based butcher,” specializes in pulled “pork” made from jackfruit; “bacon” bits that are actually spiced coconut flakes; and, my favourite, slabs of plant protein (wheat gluten, pea, soy) that both look and taste gratifyingly close to grilled Korean ribs. They’re doused in a fiery gochujang sauce, chewy in all the right ways, and make a substantial meal with some fluffy rice and pickled cuke. $6.53. Yam Chops, 705 College St., 416-645-0117.
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