Name: Sammarco
Contact: 4 Front St. E., sammarco.ca, @sammarcosteak
Neighbourhood: St. Lawrence
Owners: Rob Rossi and David Minicucci
Chef: Rob Rossi
Accessibility: Not fully accessible
Sammarco is the long-envisioned third act from Rob Rossi and David Minicucci, completing the arc that began with Giulietta and Osteria Giulia. “It’s the final piece of the trilogy for David and I,” says Rossi. “We started off with Giulietta, which is central Italian—more convivial, with lots of pizza and pasta. Then came Osteria Giulia, which is seafood-focused. And we always wanted to have what we thought would be our crown jewel, which is Sammarco.”
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Bisteccheria Sammarco, housed in a sleek Old Town space, reimagines the classic steakhouse through an Italian lens. “It’s a unique concept because there aren’t really any Italian steakhouses around,” Rossi says. “It gave us the chance to define it in our own way.”
That meant channelling the grandeur and ritual of an American steakhouse while staying true to Italian sensibilities, especially when it comes to sourcing. The restaurant’s dry-aged beef program features only Ontario-raised meat, all from Cumbrae’s. “The mindset of Italian cooking is to use what’s around you,” says Rossi. “You’re not going to find a chef in Italy importing ingredients from 3,000 kilometres away.”
Instead of an encyclopedic steak selection, Sammarco keeps things simple with just four cuts. All the beef is aged in-house for a minimum of 60 days, trimmed on-site and cooked in an upright broiler. Steaks are seasoned with house-made samoya, a herbed salt that reflects the restaurant’s roots. “It follows the Italian tradition of grilling seasoned meat, but it also doesn’t impart any radical flavours,” says Rossi. “It adds grassy, herbal notes.”
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But the biggest surprise isn’t the beef—it’s what’s happening elsewhere on the menu. “The meat is the easy part,” says Rossi. “The rest of the menu is where we really get an opportunity to shine.” The seafood, vegetables and regional plates are just as compelling as the steaks. “It’s always flavour first, so the food is more modern than traditional Italian fare,” says Rossi. “It’s not always about being staunch Italian—it’s more of an ethos.”
At Sammarco, the bar program is designed to complement, not compete. “We’re a restaurant first,” says bar manager Sam Couchman. “It’s food first, wine second, and the bar program fills out the rest.”
That doesn’t mean it’s an afterthought. The cocktails lean in to timeless simplicity. “Every drink should feel like it could have been ordered 80 years ago,” Couchman says. To that end, guests can expect classic profiles, clean presentations and absolutely no fluff. Cutting-edge bar techniques underpin the old-school philosophy: the team makes most ingredients from scratch, including their own vermouth, aperitivo and gentian liqueur.
The wine list is just as carefully considered, built around standout Italian and Canadians labels along with picks from the US and the rest of Europe.
Curated by Toronto’s II by IV Design, the room references its Italian heritage while embracing contemporary luxury. Guests enter through a glowing amber glass portal into the bar, where polished brass accents and hand-poured terrazzo flooring set a moody, cinematic tone. The palette of deep wood, oxblood leather and gleaming metal feels as much Milan fashion house as modern ristorante. Many of the restaurant’s core elements—woodwork, stone, glass and metal—were hand-crafted by Canadian artisans, echoing Italy’s legacy of master craftsmanship with a local perspective.
The artwork lining the walls is said to be one of the largest collections ever installed in a Canadian restaurant. Each piece in the diverse mix of illustrations and paintings by local artists was hand-selected by the design agency’s founding partners.
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Jessica Huras is a freelance writer and editor with over a decade of experience creating food, travel and lifestyle content. She’s a content editor for the LCBO’s Food & Drink magazine, and her work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, the Toronto Star, Chatelaine, Toronto Life and Elle Canada, among other publications.