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Food & Drink

This new Italian restaurant in the Financial District is a love letter to Florence

Florin serves Tuscan classics including Flintstone-style Florentine steaks

By Caroline Aksich| Photography by Jelena Subotic
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A spread of Italian dishes and cocktails at Florin in Toronto

Name: Florin Contact: 80 Richmond St. W., florintrattoria.com, @florin.to
Neighbourhood: Financial District
Owners: Turner Hospitality Group (Mother Tongue, Twist, Poppy’s French Bistro) Chefs: Executive chef Francis Bermejo (Bar Buca) and chef de cuisine Brian Kang (Don Alfonso, DaNico) Accessibility: Fully accessible

Florin takes its name from the golden coin once minted in Renaissance-era Florence—a fitting emblem for a trattoria with one foot in Tuscany and the other in Toronto’s Financial District. It’s the latest from Turner Hospitality Group, the small family-run outfit behind Mother Tongue and a string of restaurants near Blue Mountain in Collingwood.

Shelby Turner, of Turner Hospitality Group
Shelby Turner of Turner Hospitality Group

Related: An Italian bakery and trattoria is opening on the Etobicoke waterfront this summer

For their first foray into Toronto’s Financial District, the Turners looked to Tuscany. “My grandmother was a Magnone, so there’s a family connection to Italy,” says second-generation restaurateur Shelby Turner. “But, more than that, we love how Italians eat—it’s about savouring the moment, from morning espresso to a late-night amaro.” With the neighbourhood’s steady churn of office workers and tourists, it was the perfect place to channel the rhythm of a true trattoria: pasta and hearty salads at lunch, afternoon espresso, negronis and gnudi for the cinq-à-sept crowd, and a dinner of show-stopping bistecca alla Fiorentina (thick-cut steaks sold by the weight, with the largest ringing in at 70 ounces).

Florin chef de cuisine Brian Kang
Chef de cuisine Brian Kang
The exterior of Florin, a new Tuscan restaurant in Toronto
The Food

The restaurant’s name may reference 16th-century Italy, but the kitchen is firmly rooted in the present. “Florence is our North Star,” says Turner, but that’s less a set of marching orders than a source of inspiration. This means the recipes aren’t necessarily bound by Nonna’s rule book—if Thai chili hits the spice mark better than peperoncini, so be it. “Being rooted in Tuscany gives us guard rails,” says Turner. “But it’s not about rules—it’s about direction.”

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A bowl of lumaconi with tomato, Thai chilies and guanciale
Apart from being told pizza was a no-go, chef Kang had carte blanche to channel Tuscany as he pleased. The Don Alfonso and DaNico alum brings polish, but nothing feels fussy. Take the maccheroni, a smart spin on amatriciana. Spaghetti is subbed out for lumaconi: plump, ridged tubes built for sauce. The tomato base gets heat from espelette and Thai chili and heft from rendered guanciale fat. Instead of rustic pork hunks, Kang tucks the pasta in beneath silk-thin slices of smoked jowl. It’s hearty yet delicate. $32

 

Tortellini peposo filled with beef braised in red wine and stock for nearly three hours, until meltingly tender
The bronze-die-extruded pastas—like that sauce-clinging lumaconi—come from Toronto’s Tiny Market. But anything stuffed, like the tortellini peposo, is made in-house. These plump rings are filled with beef braised in red wine and stock for nearly three hours, until meltingly tender. They’re served in a delicate beef jus, topped with mini mushrooms and dotted with a mellow garlic sauce. $36

 

Spinach gnudi
You’d be forgiven for thinking it’s a menu misprint: gnudi filed under antipasti instead of pasta. But Kang insists that these lemony spinach clouds are starters, not mains—their flavour too delicate, their texture too airy. $24

 

A chef preps a cured and smoked amberjack dish
Cured and smoked amberjack with olive purée, herb oil, micro herbs and chargrilled bell pepper
Cured amberjack is sliced sashimi-style after a brief applewood cold smoke. It’s plated like an abstract Italian flag: three greens—olive purée, herb oil and micro herbs—plus a smoky red from chargrilled bell pepper, all on stark white porcelain. Call it a patriotic plate for the emotionally reserved paisan. $26

 

A chef grates cheese over a radicchio salad
A radicchio and endive salad
This radicchio and endive salad is another example of Kang playing it loose with the Italian playbook. The lemony dressing, the generous snow of parmigiano-reggiano—textbook. But then he adds pecans. Not pine nuts, not walnuts—fatty, sweet, decidedly nonna-unapproved pecans. It’s an off-script move only a Tuscan purist would clock. $22

 

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A one-and-a-half-pound Nova Scotian crustacean arrives, showcasing its tail and a single hulking claw, and served over a brothy cannellini bean ragu with seared blue oyster mushrooms
The menu toggles between easy-to-share plates and more composed mains like this lobster. A one-and-a-half-pound Nova Scotian crustacean arrives, showcasing its tail and a single hulking claw. It’s served over a brothy cannellini-bean ragù with seared blue oyster mushrooms and a tiny parcel of brown butter mashed potatoes, neatly bundled in escarole and crowned with trout roe. $74

 

Sinfonia di Fragole, a symphony of strawberry in five movements: a silky panna cotta, piped with jam and sitting in a glossy pool of strawberry glaze
Kang calls this dish Sinfonia di Fragole, a symphony of strawberry in five movements: a silky panna cotta piped with jam and sitting in a glossy pool of strawberry glaze. It’s crowned with crisp chips and a buttery crumble. $17
The Drinks

Turner caught the cocktail bug while launching Liquid Courage, the speakeasy tucked below Mother Tongue. At Florin, that fascination finds full expression in a tight, thoughtful drink list anchored by Italian staples. “With Florence as our focus, we couldn’t not give the negroni its due—it was invented there, after all,” she says. So there’s a whole negroni section on the cocktail card, alongside spritzes and martinis.

Related: Toronto’s new dirty martinis are easy, breezy and literally cheesy

As for the wine, the current list is 100 bottles long and growing. It covers the Italian classics (chianti, pecorino, montepulciano d’Abruzzo, amarone) plus globetrotting picks from the Loire to the Napa Valley. It’s a wine card built to please everyone from the C-suite suit with a generous expense account (hello, $480 Piedmont barolo) to the vinho verde fan hunting a crisp budget-friendly bottle.

The house negroni is made with Tanqueray, Campari and a secret blend of three vermouths
The house negroni is made with Tanqueray, Campari and a secret blend of three vermouths that Turner tweaked obsessively until it hit the sweet spot: bitter enough for die-hard negroni drinkers but bright and breezy enough to sip more than one. Sessionable yet serious. $17

 

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A negroni sour
The negroni sour, according to Turner, is a very New York take on a very Italian drink. Cocchi, citrus and egg white are shaken into a foamy riff on the Florentine classic. $22

 

The Bicicletta Estevia, an Italian spritz
The spritz chapter of the cocktail card features lesser-known sparkling sippers like the Bicicletta Estevia: a dry, lightly bitter refresher made with white wine, Campari, Select Aperitivo, Meletti Amaro and grapefruit soda. Its name honours anyone who has pedalled home a little sideways after one too many. $23

 

A person pours a martini from a carafe into a glass
Here’s the Pepperoncini Martini, a dirty martini with both the brine and heat cranked up. Olive oil–washed vodka, dry vermouth and a glug of peperoncini brine make for a savoury, spicy sipper. It’s garnished with spicy cheese-stuffed olives, because every great cocktail deserves a snack. $22
The Space

Florin may sit in a 1920s heritage building, but when the Turners took over the lease, the space was more DHL depot than dolce vita. To bring the room back to life, they enlisted Solid Creative Design and leaned in to stile Liberty—Italy’s riff on art nouveau. Think terrazzo floors lined in brass, reeded orb lights, walnut millwork and enchanting botanical bas-reliefs featuring Tuscan flora like poppies and rosemary.

There are wine windows inspired by those found in the streets of Florence: arched walnut niches built into the walls beside tables, designed to cradle bottles of red during dinner. For anything that needs to stay chilled, ice buckets are seamlessly built into the banquettes.

The 96-seat space includes a seven-seat marble bar and a leafy 46-seat patio tucked in an alley.

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The bar at Florin in Toronto
The dining room at Florin, a Tuscan restaurant downtown Toronto
Red booth seating in Florin's dining room
Banquette seating at Florin, a Tuscan restaurant in Toronto
Shelves stocked with wine in the dining room of Florin
A wine window in the dining room of Florin, an Italian restaurant in Toronto
A wine window, like the ones in Florence, in a Toronto restaurant
The patio at Florin, a new Italian restaurant in Toronto's Financial District

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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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