What’s on the menu at Rhapsody, a new bar on Ossington for Nikkei cuisine and cocktails
It’s from the owner of Little Italy’s Mrs. Robinson
By Liza Agrba| Photography by Marc Santos
| January 24, 2024
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Name: Rhapsody
Contact: 214 Ossington Ave., rhapsodytoronto.com, @rhapsody_to Neighbourhood:Trinity Bellwoods Owner: Dan Eyimina (Mrs. Robinson)
Chef: Elias Salazar (Waska Peruvian Kitchen)
Accessibility: Not fully accessible
Back in 2017, self-described hospitality lifer Dan Eyimina opened Mrs. Robinson—an ultra-hip ’70s-themed cocktail bar and music venue in Little Italy. From its playlists to its design, Mrs. Robinson is about paying homage to the layered history of modern hip hop. In a different way, music is also at the heart of Rhapsody, Eyimina’s new project on the Ossington strip.
Owner Dan Eyimina with Rhapsody’s house burger and fries.
“I wanted to create a symphonic fusion of food, beverage and music. It’s about creating a visceral sensory experience,” he says. “I think we achieved that with Mrs. Robinson, and we aim to offer a similarly transportive experience here.” Between DJs spinning genre-melding tunes heavy on remixes and B-sides; a moody, forest-inspired aesthetic; and a menu that fuses Peruvian and Japanese cuisine, Rhapsody hits its mark as an eclectic multisensory experience.
Back row, from left: executive chef Elias Salazar, Angel Gonzalez and Max Hardiman. Seated, from left: Andrew Pocasai, Andrea Candela, owner Dan Eyimina, lead mixologist Joe Beiglee and Cristal Bonilla Rosales.
The food
The heart of this menu is Nikkei cuisine—the product of a long history of cultural exchange between Peru and Japan, where the former’s ubiquitous peppers, potatoes and corn meet the latter’s shoyu, nori and yuzu kosho, among other star ingredients. There’s Peruvian-style sashimi, Japanese karaage in honey infused with Peruvian peppers and whipped potato topped with an ikura-laden shrimp salad. “Besides traditional Peruvian food, Nikkei is the most prevalent cuisine in Peru right now,” says executive chef Elias Salazar.
Here we have Peruvian-style sashimi. Thinly sliced scallops sit in a pool of Peruvian passion fruit and aji amarillo emulsion with honey and yuzu. It’s finished with dollops of salsa chalaca (onion, tomato and pepper) and mango purée. $25
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This is Rhapsody’s house ceviche, served on dry ice for its cooling action (and drama). Tender Moroccan octopus, Portuguese tiger shrimp and glazed yam come in a citrus-based tiger’s milk infused with rocoto peppers. $25
The Concha a la Parmesana (front and centre) is a big, meaty scallop served on its shell with sharp parmesan cream, crispy toasted panko and a hint of lime. $15
A take on Japanese karaage, boneless chicken leg marinated in Peruvian spices and coated in Japanese rice flour is fried and covered in a delicate honey and Peruvian pepper reduction. It’s finished with sesame seeds and served with a salad of Japanese cabbage and carrot in a punchy house yuzu-kosho mayo. $18
Here we have octopus, grilled in an anticucho (garlic, onion and cilantro, among other flavours) and served on a sun-dried potato stew alongside crisp pork belly and a vibrant salsa criolla with red onions and aji peppers. The plate is finished with an olive emulsion and dehydrated olives. $30
Whipped Yukon gold potato is topped with shrimp, avocado, ikura salad, a fried tiger shrimp and dollops of olive emulsion. $22
The Tostada Nikkei, best eaten with your hands, features nori sheets—soaked in dashi, breaded and fried—topped with yellowfin tuna, uni, furikake-seasoned sushi rice, red caviar, torched avocado and house-made spicy mayo with Peruvian peppers. It’s finished with a touch of lemon balm. $24
The house burger features a juicy sous-vide patty, spicy rocoto pepper–spiked tomato chutney, Gruyère cheese, and house-made spicy mayo and miso aioli ($19). It’s pictured with pecorino-dusted yuca fries ($6)
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Here we have the menu’s two outstanding desserts. On the left, lucuma ice cream (if you haven’t had this Peruvian fruit, its flavour is a delectable cross between butterscotch and sweet potato) encased in a Biscoff alfajor cookie with toasted coconut and Peruvian chocolate. On the right, an impeccable take on tres leches with peach preserves, a peach and vanilla milk infusion, and chica morada (a traditional Peruvian corn drink) Chantilly. $12 each
The drinks
Rhapsody’s signature cocktails (all named after lead mixologist Joe Beiglee’s favourite songs) take subtle cues from the culinary program with ingredients like Peruvian pisco and Japanese sesame oil. The restaurant also partnered with Tromba, which serves as the base of the classic tequila-based tipples—your margaritas and palomas—served in a back bar dubbed the Water Room. There’s also a tight but varied selection of beer and a short wine list that includes a few special reserve bottles. Abstaining guests can ask for a custom mocktail or a glass of chica morada, a Peruvian corn-based drink that tastes a bit like a grape popsicle.
The Speedboat mixes tequila and smoky mezcal with blue curaçao and lime, all finished with a spritz of eucalyptus tincture for freshness. $19
The Easy Rider is a Peruvian pisco sour. There’s a hint of lemon and delightful house-made fig syrup that balances the fruit’s sweetness with some vegetal notes. $19
Essentially an amaro-based Long Island iced tea, the Snow Beach features Averna, Fernet and Cynar but maintains remarkable balance for all its bitter-forward ingredients. $19
Based on the Fog Cutter—one of Beiglee’s favourite tiki drinks—the ALL CAPS blends rum, pisco, sherry, gin, orange and a beautiful house-made walnut orgeat. For all the alcohol, it doesn’t taste particularly boozy. Tread carefully. $18
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The space
The focus of the space is a fantasy forest motif with wood finishes: there’s a deep-green woodsy mural and dramatic plant-like chandeliers. The fantasy element comes through in metallic finishes meant to evoke water in unexpected places—including mirrored “droplets” on the walls and ceiling. A screen in the Water Room plays looping visuals featuring water and mermaids.
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