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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Aamara, Corso Italia’s luxurious new Indian restaurant

Including an interesting Indian twist on a charcuterie board

By Jessica Huras| Photography by Joshua Best
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Aamara, a new Indian restaurant in Toronto

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Name: Aamara Contact: 1224 St. Clair Ave. W., aamara.ca, @aamaratoronto
Neighbourhood: Corso Italia
Owners: Kugendran Perampalam (ThaiRoomGrand, Savor) and Phanom (Patrick) Suksaen (Eat BKK, Koh Lipe, Som Tum Jinda) Chef: Arulmani Rajarathinam Accessibility: Not fully accessible

With Aamara, owner Kugendran Perampalam wants to introduce Toronto to a side of Indian cuisine he feels is underrepresented in the city. “I see a lot of North Indian food in the market, but not many people are doing South Indian,” he says.

Perampalam owns several Thai restaurants, including Savor, which is located right next door to Aamara. “I wanted to do something different,” he says. “I’m from Sri Lanka, which has a lot of similarities with South Indian cuisine.”

Aamara manager Thamil Kulendiran, bartender Zubin Chaudhary, owner Kugendran Perampalan and chef Arulmani Rajarathinam
From left: manager Thamil Kulendiran, bartender Zubin Chaudhary, owner Kugendran Perampalam and chef Arulmani Rajarathinam

Related: Bungalow 22, a monthly supper club featuring a rotating menu of regional Indian cuisine

But rather than keeping a focus solely on South Indian cuisine, Aamara’s menu spotlights signature dishes from all corners of the country. “We’ve picked the best dishes from every region and put those on the menu,” says Perampalam.

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The menu is currently available à la carte, but a multi-course tasting menu is also in the works. “At the end of the day, my focus is on the food,” says Perampalam. “The food has to be right. If the food is tasty, then customers will come back.”

The team behind Aamara, a new Indian restaurant in Toronto
The whole team
The food

Chef Rajarathinam’s menu touches on classic dishes from virtually every Indian state. “I’ve been in the industry almost 17 years, and I’ve travelled a lot in India,” he says. “I’ve worked in most of the states and learned which dishes are famous and which ingredients are needed to make them.”

Related: What’s on the menu at Bar Goa, Hemant Bhagwani’s new tasting-menu restaurant

It’s no small feat for one restaurant to represent the wide-ranging cooking styles and flavours found across India, but Rajarathinam approached the task with meticulous planning and research. To distill India’s vast culinary repertoire, he chose dishes that bring maximum variety to the menu. “I didn’t want to use the same ingredients again and again,” he says.

These bite-sized riffs on idli, a staple South Indian breakfast, consist of lentils enveloped in a steamed rice cake
These bite-size riffs on idli, a staple South Indian breakfast, consist of lentils enveloped in a steamed rice cake. A coconut chutney is served alongside, adding slight sweetness to each delightfully chewy bite. $16

 

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Money bag–shaped samosas are stuffed with a classic potato and green pea filling
Money bag–shaped samosas are stuffed with a classic potato-and-pea filling. They’re plated with flourishes of tamarind and mint chutneys. $14

 

Tender coconut, coconut water and coconut milk come together in this subtly sweet and soup-like dessert
Tender coconut, coconut water and coconut milk come together in this subtly sweet and soup-like dessert. It’s finished with edible 24-karat gold leaf and flowers. $22

 

Coconut curry with steamed rice noodles wrapped in banana leaves
Kerala is known for vegetarian dishes like this coconut curry. It comes with steamed rice noodles to be drowned in the mellow, creamy broth. $28

 

Mint adds a pop of freshness to this shrimp and caramelized onion biryani
Mint adds a pop of freshness to this shrimp and caramelized onion biryani. It’s served with raita, a simple salad and eggplant salan (a curry-like condiment). $33

 

Chole khakhra, a bowl of chickpeas bathed in an onion and tomato gravy
Here we have chole khakhra, chickpeas bathed in an onion-and-tomato curry. Crisp chapati wafers serve as vehicles for scooping. $16

 

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A base of tandoor-cooked bone-in Cornish hen brings new dimensions to the familiar flavours of butter chicken
A base of tandoor-cooked bone-in Cornish hen brings new dimensions to the familiar flavours of butter chicken. A rich tomato-and-butter curry is poured over the bird tableside. $28

 

The Indian charcuterie platter at Aamara, a restaurant in Toronto
This playful reimagining of a charcuterie platter swaps deli meats for tandoor-cooked Cornish hen, beef cheek, lobster tail and lamb chops topped with edible gold leaf. Italian basil chicken is presented on the side in a smoked-filled cloche to further amp up its earthy flavour. The board is rounded out with house-made paneer, mesclun leaves, assorted nuts and berries, broccoli, Desi crackers, clarified butter and mint chutney. The two shot glasses are for broth, not booze: a spin on pani puri, a popular Indian street food, they contain a concoction of meat drippings and cilantro meant to be poured into the potato-stuffed puri shells on top. Needless to say, this platter is made for sharing. $72

 

Garlic naan
Here we have some garlic naan. $7

 

Sweet naan stuffed with chopped nuts, raisins, coconut and honey
And some sweet naan stuffed with chopped nuts, raisins, coconut and honey. $16

 

For dessert, discs of house-made cheese are alternated with spiced sponge cake for this rasmalai
For dessert, discs of house-made cheese are alternated with spiced sponge cake for this rasmalai. $23

 

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The drinks

Mirroring the continent-spanning food menu, Aamara’s signature cocktails are each inspired by, and named after, a different part of India. Draught beer is courtesy of Scarborough-based Cheetah, which specializes in brews that pair well with the flavours of Indian food. And a tight wine list includes some crowd-pleasing Chardonnays and Cab Sauvs.

This smoky cocktail—with warming flavours of bourbon, chai-tea infused vermouth, cinnamon syrup and citrus indica bitters—was inspired by the spice markets of Kolkata
This smoky cocktail—with warming flavours of bourbon, chai-tea infused vermouth, cinnamon syrup and citrus indica bitters—was inspired by the spice markets of Kolkata. $25

 

Hyderabad is the muse for this purple-pigmented tipple. Gin is combined with orange and elderflower liqueurs, along with saffron-infused honey, lemon juice and egg white
Hyderabad is the muse for this purple-pigmented tipple. Gin is combined with orange and elderflower liqueurs as well as saffron-infused honey, lemon juice and egg white. $21

 

This vibrant creation aims to capture the electric energy of Bengaluru, the capital of India's Karnataka state. The tequila-based drink features mango purée, lime juice and turmeric, and a spicy Tajin rim
This vibrant creation aims to capture the electric energy of Bengaluru, the capital of India’s Karnataka state. The tequila-based drink features mango purée, lime juice, turmeric and a spicy Tajín rim. (A non-alcoholic version is also available.) $20

 

The pink hue of this cocktail is a reference to Jaipur, which is nicknamed the Pink City for its blush-coloured buildings. For it, spiced rum is mixed with Amarula, Kashmiri tea, rose syrup and cardamom bitters. $21
The pink hue of this cocktail is a reference to Jaipur, which is nicknamed the Pink City for its blush-coloured buildings. For it, spiced rum is mixed with Amarula, Kashmiri tea, rose syrup and cardamom bitters. $21

 

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The space

Perampalam worked with design studio Revel House to create a warm and ornate space decorated with lighting fixtures and art pieces imported from India. He chose rich teal and eggplant tones to create a setting that would feel elegant enough for date nights and special occasions, and one wall is printed with patterns reminiscent of mehndi.

The dining room at Aamara, a new Indian restaurant in Toronto
Looking down a row of tables in Aamara's dining room to the custom-made, wall-mounted lighting fixture
The dining room at Aamara is decorated with mirrors and custom-made lighting fixtures
Curved banquettes sit under an also-curved ceiling in Aamara's dining room
The bar at Aamara, an Indian restaurant on St. Clair Avenue West in Toronto
Shelves behind a bar are lined with bottles of liquor, wine and glassware

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Jessica Huras is a freelance writer and editor with over a decade of experience creating food, travel and lifestyle content. She’s a content editor for the LCBO’s Food & Drink magazine, and her work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, the Toronto Star, Chatelaine, Toronto Life and Elle Canada, among other publications.

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