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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Charlemagne, Café Renée’s second-floor speakeasy

Including an all-dumpling snack menu

By Toronto Life| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves
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A bartender adds a sprinkle of salt into a shaker

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Name: Charlemagne Contact: 100 Portland St., @charlemagnecocktailbar
Neighbourhood: King West
Owners: Operating manager Bianca Rossi and Nick Liu (Dailo) Chefs: Executive chef Nick Liu and chef de cuisine Josh Ling (Dailo) Beverage director: Angus Edmundson (BarChef) Accessibility: Not fully accessible (up a flight of stairs)

On the second floor of Café Renée, behind an unmarked black door, is Charlemagne. The hidden cocktail lounge—designed to look like something out of London, England, circa 1940—was inspired by beverage director Angus Edmundson’s British heritage. The cozy space fits around 25 guests, and behind the bar, seriously talented mixologists make cocktails to the sounds of Sinatra.

Related: What’s on the menu at Café Renée, chef Nick Liu’s Italian-inspired French restaurant

A lineup of cocktails at Charlemagne, a speakeasy-inspired bar in Toronto
The drinks

Edmundson leads an expert crew: there’s a rum specialist who studied in a Cuban bar; a recruit from the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, and someone who worked at Bar Mood in Taipei. Guests unsure of what to order from the menu can simply tell their bartender what their preferences are for either a recommendation or a custom-made cocktail.

The Rabbit Hole is a blend of bourbon, Campari, Lillet and a bit of earthy lion’s mane mushroom tincture
The Rabbit Hole is a blend of bourbon, Campari, Lillet and a bit of earthy lion’s mane mushroom tincture. A splash of carrot-and-orange-blossom syrup brightens up the bittersweet cocktail. $24

 

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The Redwood is a blend of Rémy Martin VSOP, some Amaro Lucano, a bit of saffron syrup, some mole bitters, anise, a red cedarwood chip tincture and some absinthe for a little oomph.
The Redwood is loosely based on a black Manhattan, but with a Cognac base. It’s made with Rémy Martin VSOP, some Amaro Lucano, a bit of saffron syrup, some mole bitters, anise, a red cedar tincture and some absinthe for a little oomph. And that simple-seeming cherry garnish is infused with orange liqueur, absinthe, sugar, brandy, cacao nibs and tonka beans. $29

 

The Verona is a tangy, herbal blend of gin infused with green olive leaf, lime leaf cordial, lemon juice, Aperol and Cointreau
The Verona is a tangy, herbal blend of gin infused with green olive leaf, lime leaf cordial, lemon juice, Aperol and Cointreau. It’s garnished with a single olive that sits on an ice cube in a chiselled-out divot so it doesn’t roll away. “You could take this drink on a train and that olive wouldn’t go anywhere,” says Edmundson. $24

 

The Gilded Rose is a low-ABV sherry highball–style cocktail. It’s made with rose-infused Fino Sherry, a touch of agave, Strega, house-made gentian, a splash of Champagne and verjus, a an acidic juice of pressed unripened grapes
The Gilded Rose is a low-ABV highball-style cocktail. It’s made with rose-infused Fino Sherry, a touch of agave, Strega, house-made gentian, a splash of champagne and verjus, an acidic juice of pressed unripened grapes. A pinch of salt brings out all those mellow flavours. It’s refreshing, light and floral. $25

 

A bartender at Charlemagne passes a drink across the bar
The food

The all-dumpling menu features shrimp har gow, veggie potstickers and Dailo’s popular pork-and-shrimp wontons. Each order includes three pieces and comes with a dipping sauce.

Shrimp har gow in a pool of flavourful chili and sesame oil
Shrimp har gow arrive in a pool of flavourful chili and sesame oil. $15

 

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Vegetable pot stickers drizzled with curry oil
The vegetable pot stickers are drizzled with curry oil. $15

 

Pork-and-shrimp wontons, in house XO sauce with toasted sesame oil and an almond crumble
And here are Dailo’s popular pork-and-shrimp wontons, in house XO sauce with toasted sesame oil and an almond crumble. $15

 

A spread of dumplings and cocktails at Charlemagne, a cocktail bar in Toronto
The space

Much like the Redwood, Edmundson’s favourite drink on the menu, the place is decked out in earthy tones, including milk-chocolate-brown leather banquettes and barstools and warm wood panelling. With the curtains closed, the only source of light in the moody room comes from the glowing, backlit bottles of liquor behind the bar.

Charlemagne, a cocktail bar in Toronto, is lit only by the glowing bottles behind the bar
The moody room at Charlemagne, a speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar in Toronto
Horseshoe-shaped brown leather banquettes are surrounded by wood panelling and mirrors at Charlemagne, a cocktail bar
Inside Charlemagne, a moody speakeasy-inspired bar in Toronto

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