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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at M’Eat, Leslieville’s new restaurant that’s also a butcher shop

By Caroline Aksich| Photography by Caroline Aksich
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What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop

Name: M’Eat Resto and Butcher Contact: 806 Queen St. E., meatrestobutcher.com, @meatrestobutcher
Neighbourhood: Leslieville Previously: Mazz Japanese Bistro Owner: Cameron Nelson and Danielle Brown Chef: Cameron Nelson (O&B, Nyood, Bymark) and chef de cuisine Rudy Boquila (Lamesa)

The food

Cameron Nelson moved to Toronto from rural Alberta 20 years ago. While he’s mostly adjusted, the farm boy felt the city was missing a place for great steak in an unpretentious atmosphere. He’s bringing in one animal at a time from a farm in Gowanstown (where each cow has two acres of land and a diet of grass and fruit rinds from the Sun-Kissed factory) and breaking them down in-house.

Lunchtime sees a simple menu of sandwiches, burgers and steak frites that come in a variety of cuts. As Nelson is only working with one cow at a time, cuts will depend on availability. The dinner menu (which is surprisingly vegetarian friendly) also features an oyster-less raw bar that includes three versions of raw beef plates from around the world: a tataki, a carpaccio and a tartare. The exact preparation of each will change regularly, dictated by what’s in season.

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
Tempura-battered green beans served with calamansi ponzu. $10.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
This cauliflower dish features the cruciferous veggie prepared four different ways: charred, pickled, braised in red wine and raw. It’s dressed with some smoked peach tahini. $14.

 

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What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
This corn is topped with an herb-olive oil and then rolled in deep-fried shallots and crispy vermicelli. $7.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
This hanger steak tartare is made with horseradish Dijon, fried capers and quail yolk. $20.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
This tataki is a rib-eye cut drowned in yuzu ponzu. $20.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
This tomahawk steak was lightly smoked before hitting the grill, then rested until medium rare. Nelson refuses to cook beef well. If well-done your jam, he’ll ask you to order some brisket instead. $70.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
Nelson and the featured tomahawk.

 

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What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
Shortly after visiting the farm, Cameron committed to buying all 52 of the cattle. The cows are a mix of Black Angus and Black Simmental. Because they’re fed very little corn, they meat is leaner and more flavourful.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
The butcher block menu displays the day’s cuts.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
There are two menus of hearty sides. One is fully vegan (it’s cheekily titled “Cow’s Trough”). The other menu of sides includes milk and cheese products.

 

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The drinks

Since Nelson will be doing a lot of meal prep behind the bar, he wanted a concise menu of easy-to-pour drinks that he could make in between primping plates. This translates to beer, wine and whisky. The beers are all hyper-local (Godspeed, Muddy York) and the whiskeys partly local (Gooderham & Worts, Crown Royal and Bowmore), while the wines are international, most of them Old World options.

The space

Cameron’s built a few fences in his day, so he took on the bulk of this three-week whirlwind reno. They transformed a moody Japanese bistro into a room with a farmhouse feel by using a ton of barnboard, a few antique tables and a pastoral wallpaper scene. They’re working on a grab-and-go section that will include stocks, demi glace and oven-ready stews and lasagnas. A few Canadian products from small-scale producers (maple syrup, finishing salts, preserves) are also for sale.

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What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
There’s also a 24-seat patio out back with an herb garden.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop
Nelson and Brown.

 

What's on the menu at M'Eat, Leslieville's new restaurant that's also a butcher shop

Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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