Chris Nuttall-Smith takes on La Société, Charles Khabouth’s sexy, buzzy French bistro

Four million dollars buys a lot of restaurant, even on Bloor Street, at the heart of the city’s richest retail mile. Charles Khabouth, the nightclub impresario behind La Société, the new, two-storey, 380-seat, more or less slavish recreation of a belle époque Paris bistro, brought in 29 tile workers, many of them from Montreal, to complete the spectacularly elaborate black, white and gold mosaic floors in the restaurant’s main bar and dining room. He and Alessandro Munge, of the Munge Leung design firm, commissioned a stained-glass ceiling for the bistro’s main space (which they’ve backlit, inexcusably, with sallow fluorescent lights), purchased their zinc bar top from France, outfitted the banquettes in brass and burgundy leather, and panelled the room in enough mahogany to deforest the best-endowed of banana republics. The rent, meantime, likely adds $2 million annually to Khabouth’s overhead. He’ll need to sell a lot of steak frites to cover that, but the man isn’t afraid to go big.
Khabouth made his name in nightclubs beginning in the early 1980s and has built a sprawling portfolio since. The company he runs, Ink Entertainment, operates This Is London, Dragonfly, the Dolce Social Ballroom, Guvernment, Koolhaus and Tattoo Rock Parlour. Last year, Khabouth partnered with Munge Leung and a city developer to launch Bisha (from the nickname he had growing up in Beirut), a 41-storey condominium, hotel and restaurant project that’s scheduled to open on Blue Jays Way in 2015. Even before they’d broken ground, Khabouth was calling Bisha a “global brand”; he’s hoping to export the concept to South Beach, Chicago and New York.
He’s also partnered in a string of clubby restaurants, including Spice Route, Briscola Trattoria, Ame and Ultra, the Queen West resto-lounge he opened at a cost of $3.4 million in 2004. With the exception of Ame, the pan-Asian place he co-owns with celebrity chef Guy Rubino and his brother Michael Rubino, Khabouth’s restaurants have never particularly been known for their food. His genius is in building buzzy, sexy, free-spending environments. Though it skews much older than his usual projects, La Société has got scene to burn.
The bistro’s reservations book is a tear sheet from the social pages: Ben Mulroney, Galen Weston Jr., Fashion magazine editor Bernadette Morra, Greta Constanine designers Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong, and at least two thirds of the city’s Junior League ate there in its opening month. Shinan Govani, the gossip columnist, sits in a prime booth at the front of the room. One night, as I slouched with my guests in the dimly lit Siberia at the back, a procession of society wives, a few of them dressed like superannuated showgirls from La cage aux folles, led their glad-handing, silk and cashmere summer sweater–shouldering husbands on grand tours of the space. They paraded past young partner-track lawyers who punched at their BlackBerrys as their filets de saumon à la dijonnaise congealed, past impossibly handsome 20-somethings in Sperry Top-Siders and mankles, past business titans and big-ticket British tourists downing Veuve (of course) as if by the case.
If you hope to score a table on either the streetside or second-level patio, you can make a request, but not a reservation (unlike a reservation, the telephone requestervationist explained to me, a request doesn’t guarantee a seat). I’m not certain how democratically this policy is applied. The upper patio was overrun with aggressively underdressed young women one recent sultry evening, while the best the pikers (including yours truly) could do was gawk and drool from behind the glass. Dina Pugliese, the Breakfast Television host, appears to sit precisely wherever she wants.
Khabouth works the floor in dark pants, a dark shirt, a dark skinny tie and a dark schoolboy blazer, directing traffic, answering phones, shaking hands and airmailing kisses; he knows at least every third person who comes through the door. But the reason La Société succeeds as a restaurant (and it does, sort of) is Tony Longo, Ink Entertainment’s director of food and beverage and La Société’s floor boss. Longo worked his way up from busboy at the Royal York in the ’70s to manager at Centro in 1989, when Centro felt like the most important, most luxurious place a person could ever eat. He became a partner there in 1995 and then reinvented Splendido with chef David Lee in 2001. Like Khabouth, he knows everybody who matters. He knows how to run a room.
Read page 2 of Chris Nuttall-Smith’s review »
At La Société, the service is an amalgam of the pair’s experiences: for every server who’s polished and professional (Longo’s influence, I presume), there are two who are young, gorgeous and personable (in this I see Khabouth’s hand) but not entirely competent. One night, it took a full 30 minutes after being seated to get a glass of wine (10 minutes to flag down a busser who never returned, another 10 to find a waiter, five more before the waiter returned to say he’d forgotten which wine I wanted…), and longer still to place a food order. That same evening, we watched a hapless young busser circle the dining room with a pair of desserts before finally asking if they were ours (they were).
This is a shame, because some of the food, when you eventually get it, is good. Khabouth and Longo have hired James Olberg, a 20-year hotel veteran, to run their kitchen. Olberg’s job isn’t cooking so much as marshalling forces: it takes a masterful planner to provision, prepare and plate breakfast, lunch and dinner at a 380-seat restaurant seven days a week. And it takes a chef with superhuman ego control to render all those meals as faithful facsimiles of classic bistro dishes without letting his own ideas get in the way.
La Société, in spite of its moneyed crowd, high-rent real estate and glorious faux pre-war Parisian decor (if you like that sort of thing), is not overly expensive. Every day has a relatively bargain-priced plat du jour, from Tuesday’s $18 sauerkraut and boiled potatoes to the $24 seared pickerel on Fridays.
Olberg and Trevor Ritchie, his chef de cuisine, do an excellent steak frites—one of the best I’ve eaten—for a very fair $26. The hangar steak is both freakishly tender and beautifully aged. The frites are thin and crispy, double-fried, skin on, and served—if your waiter remembers to bring it—with garlic aioli. I loved the lobster and truffle risotto, which came with crisp asparagus spears and a welcome glut of butter-poached lobster. The niçoise salad is far too plain, underdressed, too dietetic-tasting to bear its name (it will become one of La Société’s most popular dishes, I bet). The pan-seared Dover sole, which at $44 is the most expensive entrée on the à la carte menu, is available amandine or meunière, but not all of the waiters know the difference. One night my amandine order arrived meunière. It was fine and fresh tasting (Khabouth’s business partner, Danny Soberano, runs All-Seas Fisheries), but overcooked. Not a disaster, but you want better for $44. Desserts, including a plate of sweet, tasty friandises, are worth ordering, though they won’t exactly change your life.
What just might do that, if only momentarily, is the restaurant’s $145 grand plateau de fruits de mer. The seafood platter brings three teetering tiers of lobster, raw oysters, grilled prawns, enormous shrimp, scallops, mussels, raw tuna and wild salmon. It turns heads, and entire bodies. Within minutes of its arrival, a procession of servers, management and curious diners started streaming past. In a room where status is nearly everything, the grand plateau bumps you up a couple of notches, which you shouldn’t care about, but of course you do. After ordering one, you know you’re going to get a patio reservation next time.
La Société
131 Bloor St. W.,
416-551-9929
Mains $18–$44
its funny how the article is about the space and not the food…as it should be because the food is lousy with hopes of meh….but the room is beautiful
I would have liked to have known what the food was like, who the chef is, and what Chris ate while he was slouched in the corner with his guests. It will be interesting to see if this place is as popular in a year from now…
No reason to critique the food. Not why people go there. They go to see and be seen. By all ‘the society’.
I went the grand opening event and found the space devine. I am looking forward to going back and grabbing a drink with Toronto’s best.
The space is beautiful, the eggs benedict were very good (as were the mussels I stole from a friend), but to me the biggest drawback is the clientele. I knew going in that this was a destination for obnoxiousness, but Toronto’s self proclaimed socialites need to turn it down just a notch. We’re on Bloor St. not Fifth Ave, and it gets a little embarrassing to watch.
how shockingly pretentious!!!!
i had the croque madame and while the ham was tasty at la societe-the best croque madame or variation of it continues to be at the bloor yorkville marriott….
These comments are great. So the poached eggs are good and the ham sandwich is good, Anything else I can’t make at home that is worth trying?
Perry* good comment who is Toronto’s Best? I didnt see any names in the last Toronto Life mag, Its seems like I need to make new friends in new areas of this city. Damn Parkdale!!
Does Khabouth also own Dolce Social Ballroom?
the ham sandwich is okay-not good and only for the ham-the rest of the sandwich wasn’t great…as i said the croque madame down the street is better-way better
1.5 stars… LOL
remember the hey-days of the early eighties when toronto’s tout monde gathered at the windsor arms…and then moved to prego for saturday lunch…versace shirts, early botox and catherine nugent in the corner….well…here it is again. these folks have to recognize ea. other, because out of town, no one does.
btw…the food is good, and the room is beautiful.
I guess the first few commentators didn’t make it to page 2 of the review… I’ve eaten here twice, once for a birthday party for 10, and once just for two. Both evenings were delicious. The food is bistro simple (be definition, a bistro serves simple food). The decor is a slavish reproduction and I see nothing wrong with that. Belle Epoque has been beautiful for years and will continue to be so. It may be a head-turning restaurant, but it’s not out of reach for the rest of us, which I think is what I most appreciated. I even got to sit on the patio! Must have been a slow night – or they thought I was someone else. Whatever the reason, I’ll go back, and I’ll take friends. If for no other reason, it’s impossible to find a decent meal in Yorkville for the same price.
the food is merely average, ‘meh’ defined.
Sounds like a lot of fluff with little substance; exactly what Yorkville is all about.
Cosmo Mannella is going there soon…
I’ve been there a few times. I thought the food was great. Maybe I just happen to go when there is a great person in the kitchen. I agree about the obnoxiousness of the guests though. Yes please take it down a notch. I must say though, just the decor makes it worth going at least once. It’s so beautiful.
The best of the best hang out wherever they want to- they do not need to be zoned in a specifically designed space.
Another spot for wannabies and fakes.
the ham sandwich is okay-not good and only for the ham-the rest of the sandwich wasn’t great…as i said the croque madame down the street is better-way better
somehow there is a bug on the board as wrote the comment as i’ve listed here but the pclives thing is not me….
I ate here for the first time on Friday night. Got a fantastic patio table overlooking Bloor street with little effort. The vibe is typically Yorkville – very trendy with everyone looking to see who is at the table next to them. Given the scene, I wasn’t expecting much from the food so was pleasantly surprised by how delicious everything was. Service was good if a little frazzled but our waiter was friendly and accomodating and the entire experience was much better than I had anticipated. Prices are within reach, vibe is great and food is delicious. What’s to complain about?
i guess different people have different expecations and different tastes…that is why there are so many restaurants out there.
i guess erin has found a new favourite place…good for her and good for la societe (they will need more erins!)
The food was GARBAGE. The service was even worse. Maybe if Mr. Kabbouth focussed more on food then decor, then some (at least one) of his restaurants would actually last. Not every restaurant needs to turn into a social scene later in the night. Call me crazy, but I would think a restaurant would be about the quality of the food, not the parisian tiles. I give it 1 year, 2 tops .. and it will be closed. Like all his other food ventures.
Charles Khabouth is to restaurants what Michel Leblanc is to airlines….
I ate dinner at this restaurant. the service was terrible, but friendly. the food was much worse. Cold fish, tasteless. the wrong wine was served. I will never return. there are many wonderful places with much warmer ambiance than this spot and excellent food!
I had the WORST meal of my life here.. Disgusting! Inedible duck confit (sausages boiled in water tasted of rancid pork, beans of dirty veg water, duck was so dry it was impossible to swallow, the pork belly was rock hard – nearly petrified) Steak frites was blue COLD.. so cold the compound butter wouldnt even melt atop of it.. fries were soggy full of grease, and the mayo they brought us had a 2mm congealed crust over top of it… We complained and were told not make such a big deal.
I’ve told everyone so far about our brutal experience at La Societe.. I dont understand why restaurants like these are actually open, and are busy! It blows my mind!