Name: Hawker Contact: 291 Augusta Ave., hawker.to, @hawker.to Neighbourhood: Kensington Market Previously: TVX Owners: Jeff Merkel and Darshan Dorka Chefs: Jeff Merkel and Leah Steduto Accessibility: Not fully accessible
The food
Chef Merkel’s artfully composed small plates aren’t just a creative take on vegan food—they’re a mediation on his naturalist philosophy of life. “We’re in a nearly transhumanist state of evolution, but this food is not about manipulating things away from their natural state,” he says. “It’s about finding the resonant frequencies of nature and embracing them. I don’t want to take away from what’s already there.”
Organic landscapes and arboreal themes inspire Merkel’s plated creations. A dish called Creek Bed is a pool of deeply savoury sage-infused oat milk in a ring of butternut squash puréed with spruce tips and garnished with marigold petals; Bushfire is a bed of rosemary surrounding an eggplant curry and ignited tableside, releasing plumes of woody smoke.
Regardless of whether you embrace naturalism, Merkel’s clean, balanced flavours will delight. House ferments, infusions and syrups abound, like a floral lavender oil served alongside a heady biryani or a caramelly birch syrup used to glaze parsnips. Merkel may be committed to the fundamental laws of nature, but it’s easy to imagine these whimsical plates into a fantastical setting.
The drinks
Cocktails—with and without alcohol—are constructed with spices, syrups and fresh-pressed juices: try a vibrant turmeric, Earl Grey and lavender creation called Resonance or the Grand Marnier-and-vodka-spiked Atonement, with cold brew, black cardamom and rose petals. The wine list—which includes a few local options alongside old-world producers—focuses on natural, unfiltered bottles.
The space
An earthy, sylvan palette of dark wood and moss epitomizes the restaurant’s philosophical bent. The walls are intentionally free of art, decorated instead with canvas that looks (somewhat ironically) like animal hide. A notable exception is a large-scale moss-and-birch hanging, which was handmade by Merkel. Billowing beige cloth covers the ceiling, and Spanish moss hangs in decorative bundles between the tables. Outside, climbing ivy decorates a romantic, picturesque patio.