What’s on the menu at Black and Blue, a two-storey, 9,000-square-foot steakhouse in the old Toronto Stock Exchange space

What’s on the menu at Black and Blue, a two-storey, 9,000-square-foot steakhouse in the old Toronto Stock Exchange space

Including seafood towers, smoking cocktails and ultra-rare Miyazaki Wagyu

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Name: Black and Blue Steakhouse
Contact: 130 King St. W., 647-368-8283, blackandbluesteakhouse.ca, @bandbsteak
Neighbourhood: Financial District
Previously: Toronto Stock Exchange
Owner: Emad Yacoub, founder and CEO of Glowbal Restaurant Group
Chef: Executive chef Morgan Bellis (Jump, Lavelle, Bisha, Constantine)
Accessibility: Accessible washroom on the main floor
 
After more than three decades in the restaurant industry, Emad Yacoub has come full circle with his new Toronto steakhouse. The founder and CEO of Glowbal Restaurant Group first came to Toronto from Egypt when he was just 18 years old. “I started from the ground up, working in restaurants and making $4 an hour in the beginning,” Yacoub says. He got his start as a kitchen assistant at the Westin Harbour Castle, then worked his way up the culinary ladder, eventually landing executive chef and chef de cuisine positions at Aqua Dolce Supper Club and the King Edward Hotel, respectively.

Black and Blue Steakhouse
Emad Yacoub

Yacoub’s first foray into restaurant ownership was in the late ’90s with the Brownstone Bistro, but he handed off the reins to his brother when he was recruited by Joe Fortes Seafood and Chophouse in Vancouver. The west was kind to him—it’s where he met his wife and where he started his restaurant group. But he considers the opening of Black and Blue a homecoming of sorts. “For me, Toronto has always been home—my brother, sister and 15 cousins live here. This restaurant has been a long time coming.”

Related: Six takes on steak frites you need to eat right now

Black and Blue Steakhouse
Bellis and Yacoub on oyster-shucking duty
The food

The menu features meat-and-potato steakhouse staples with glorified upgrades, but also sushi, sashimi and seafood towers. Old-school service means a handful of the dishes—caesar salad, steak tartare, crêpes suzette—are prepared tableside.

Naturally, the stars of this show are the premium cuts of steak, all of which are housed in a Himalayan salt–lined aging-room-slash-shrine. Nearly 1,000 custom-cut salt blocks were imported for the purpose of accelerating the aging process. “We break down everything in-house, wet-age cuts for 28 days and then dry-age for another 28 to 45 days,” says Bellis. He and his team have curated a menu of heritage and coveted breeds, including Kobe and Japanese A5 Wagyu (including the ultra-rare Miyazaki Wagyu) alongside Canadian and USDA Prime beef.

Cutting back on red meat? There’s also wild mushroom risotto, roasted Haida Gwaii halibut, coq au vin and lobster carbonara.

Black and Blue Steakhouse
Yacoub claims he invented the deep-fried Brussels sprouts dish that you can now find on menus everywhere. It was an accidental discovery 20 or so years ago, after his supplier sent a bushel he didn’t order. He was aware that Mario Batali was shaving sprouts on a mandolin for a light salad at the time, so Yacoub decided to deep-fry them instead, adding lemon, capers, parm and a healthy dose of chilies. The dish was a hit and has been on his restaurant menu ever since. $18

 

This is the colossal shrimp cocktail. “If I’m going to serve classic cocktail shrimp, it had better be big-ass shrimp we’re giving the customer,” says Yacoub. Two of them come served with house cocktail and Marie Rose sauces. $39

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
The deluxe seafood tower is a three-layer affair stocked with a dozen oysters, colossal shrimp, Dungeness crab, Atlantic lobster, king crab, marinated mussels and clams, king salmon roll, tuna nigiri, hamachi nigiri, scallop nigiri, and all the requisite sauces. $450

 

Here’s a closer look at those bivalves

 

And the Dungeness crab, pre–seafood tower

 

Customers can order nigiri by the piece (prices vary)

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
King salmon rolls. $24

 

Steaks are served with red wine reduction sauce, a recipe Bellis says is inspired by Thomas Keller. The jus is composed of tomatoes, mushroom stems, tomato paste, aromatics and—the secret ingredient—chicken feet. The added gelatin makes for a more voluptuous sauce

 

New York strip loin is cooked at 1600°F using a top-of-the-line Montague broiler. At the very end, the steak is basted in the restaurant’s specialty steakhouse butter: clarified butter whisked with cumin, paprika, garlic, sea salt and aromatics. This is done right before serving in order to accentuate the flavour and funk of the steak. $79

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
Why have mashed potatoes when you can have lobster mashed potatoes? $38

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
Also on the sides menu, creamed spinach in a white wine velouté with a fried quail’s egg and some crispy pancetta. $22

 

The restaurant’s most whimsical dessert, Marble Forest, is a series of spheres. The largest is filled with Baileys and chocolate mousse. The smaller spheres are filled with dark chocolate and coffee ganache, and one is actually a cake pop. All the spheres are sprayed with coloured cocoa butter to make them look like mushrooms. The “soil” is made of dehydrated and crumbled chocolate brownie, and the green “moss” is made from dyed spongecake. The whole dish is finished with coffee gel and served with a Baileys crème anglaise poured tableside. Photo by Tiffany Leigh

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
The BB Buttercake is a rich vanilla cake with a cream cheese base, topped with white Chantilly cream, drizzled with salted caramel sauce and garnished with fresh berries. Photo courtesy of Black and Blue Steakhouse
The drinks

The cocktail menu is made up of classics with a contemporary tweak or two. The Black or Blue?, for example, is a play on a Penicillin that blends Johnnie Walker Black with lime, ginger and pandan kocha tea umeshu; finished with a toasted sesame mist. And a list of house martinis includes one made with ocean brine.

It wouldn’t be a steakhouse without wine, though. While the list here is expansive and global, there’s a focus on bottles from the west coast, like special varietals from Mission Hill winery and Martin Lane Boutique.

The B and B Cosmopolitan is a mix of hibiscus-infused Ketel One vodka, Cointreau, St-Germain, lime and white cranberry, capped off with a citrus smoke bubble. $19

 

Bay Street Boys, served smoking, is a blend of Woodford Reserve bourbon, Boulard Calvados, Harvey’s Cream Sherry and barrel-aged bitters. $22

 

Black and Blue Steakhouse
And here’s the Black or Blue?, made from Johnnie Walker Black, lime, ginger, pandan, kocha tea and umeshu, finished with toasted sesame mist and a sesame snap. $22
The space

The old TSX space needed a complete overhaul to make it suitable for restaurant use. Ken Lam of Navigate Design conceptualized the design, and no expense was spared to realize the vision. “The budget went from $6.5 million to $10 million,” says Yacoub. “It’s the most expensive restaurant I’ve ever built.”

The two-storey, 9,000-square-foot space with a built-in mezzanine and more than one private room also has a sweeping patio with capacity for a whopping 275 diners. While there are your typical steakhouse flourishes—rich wood panelling, marble flooring and plush banquettes—there are also fun, contemporary touches that pay homage to the building’s former occupant: a ceiling gilded in actual 24-karat gold and a mural of duelling bulls composed of steak knives.

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse

Black and Blue Steakhouse