Review: Sud Forno, a quaint Italian bakery from the owners of Terroni

The head baker, Fabio Papa, emigrated from Campagna last winter to run the shop, and he greets customers warmly with a thick accent as he stacks loaves of bread alongside the pastry case loaded with custard-filled cakes, cannoli and biscottini. The sourdough is wonderfully crusty and chewy—the perfect loaf to bring to a dinner party—and the pizzas are piled with quality toppings like porchetta and caramelized onions. (They don’t measure up to Terroni’s sit-down pies, but they easily best nearby takeout slices.) The gelato case includes a dazzlingly simple ricotta-fig flavour.