Mexican brunch in the form of bright, punchy small plates takes centre stage at Campechano’s newest restaurant. Like the owner-operated brand’s other taquerias on Adelaide and College, a strong in-house masa (corn) program is the backbone of the menu. There’s not a prepackaged tortilla to be found in these kitchens: Campechano imports dried heirloom corn from small Mexican farms and processes it on site, from nixtamalization (an alkaline soak that enhances corn’s nutritional value and flavour) to grinding and shaping.
At the taquerias, masa is mainly processed into tortillas. Here, the foundational ingredient takes on myriad other forms: wrapped in banana leaf for a plush steamed tamale; fried into a tortilla-tostada hybrid; or transmuted into tender, chewy hominy in a deeply spiced pozole. While the finished dishes appear deceptively simple, meticulous complexity underlies their components, like potent salsas and concentrated stocks made from thoughtfully sourced ingredients, including local meat and eggs.
There’s everything you could want for brunch beverages: coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice and tasty cocktails, including (of course) mimosas. Try the piña mimosa, which subs in the juice from grilled pineapples and lime for the traditional orange.
Behind the front counter is an impressive assembly of masa-processing gear, including a conveyor belt that churns out tortillas. Next to a handful of tables by the front counter, there’s a hallway into a bright, spacious dining room with hanging lamps and cheery minimalist decor. And, if you’re lucky, you may have an encounter with Rummy on the sunny front patio.
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