What’s on the menu at Café Cancan, Victor Barry’s new French bistro in the old Harbord Room space

Name: Café Cancan Contact: 89 Harbord St., 647-341-3100, cafecancan.com, @cafecancanto
Neighbourhood: Harbord Village Previously: Harbord Room Owners: Victor Barry, Nikki Leigh McKean and Brendan Piunno Chefs: Victor Barry (Piano Piano, Splendido, Fika)

The food

Contemporary takes on bistro classics like steak tartare served with fingerling potato chips, French onion soup loaded with shredded short rib and gruyere, and Acadian sturgeon caviar served with tater tots. There’s also chilled seafood, mains for two (roast duck, côte de boeuf) and a whole section of the menu devoted to foie gras. Barry’s Burger, a double-patty number on a house-made milk bun, is meant to satisfy lingering cravings for Harbord Room’s signature item.

The drinks

A mostly French wine list with a bunch of Champagne and rosé; a growing collection of cognacs and armagnacs; and cocktails, some of them low-proof. Coming soon: an absinthe fountain.

The space

Tiffany Pratt (also responsible for the Splendido-Piano Piano transformation) has brightened up the 30-seat room with pastel-coloured walls, confetti-splashed floors and flamingo wallpaper. Later this summer, a back patio will offer room for another 30 guests.