Review: Ramen Isshin’s decor isn’t great, but the house broth delivers supremely porky flavour
Ramen Isshin ★
421 College St., 416-367-4013
The owners of Kingyo, the rollicking Cabbagetown izakaya, have opened a spinoff dedicated to ramen. The new spot, in a former shawarma takeout joint at College and Bathurst, is a decorator’s nightmare of glaring pot lights and taupe tile, but the mainly undergrad clientele is only concerned that the house broth has simmered for a day or more to reach extreme depths of porky flavour. Of the eight available variations, the one to get is the tan-tan—a bracing combination of chili oil, minced pork, slow-braised pork belly and a healthy garnish of nutty black sesame. Battered, deep-fried chicken karaage and slightly mushy takoyaki make for greasily satisfying if unimaginative sides.