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Food & Drink

Review: Ramen Isshin’s decor isn’t great, but the house broth delivers supremely porky flavour

(Image: Renée Suen)
(Image: Renée Suen)

Ramen Isshin 421 College St., 416-367-4013

We’ve updated our star ratings system since this article was first published. Read more about the change here, and find the up-to-date rating in our restaurant listings.

The owners of Kingyo, the rollicking ­Cabbagetown izakaya, have opened a spin­off dedicated to ramen. The new spot, in a former shawarma takeout joint at College and Bathurst, is a decorator’s nightmare of glaring pot lights and taupe tile, but the mainly undergrad clientele is only concerned that the house broth has simmered for a day or more to reach extreme depths of porky flavour. Of the eight available variations, the one to get is the tan-tan—a bracing combination of chili oil, minced pork, slow-braised pork belly and a healthy garnish of nutty black sesame. Battered, deep-fried chicken karaage and slightly mushy takoyaki make for greasily satisfying if unimaginative sides.

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