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Food & Drink

This shapeshifting restaurant will change its concept, chef and space every year

Oro, Hemant Bhagwani’s latest venture, is currently serving modern Indian food

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Shlomi Amiga
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A spread of dishes and drinks at ORO

Name: Oro Contact: 501 College St., orotoronto.com, @orotoronto
Neighbourhood: Little Italy
Previously: La Carnita Chef and owner: Hemant Bhagwani
Accessibility: Not fully accessible—washrooms in basement

Oro joins the wave of restaurants breathing new life into Little Italy’s culinary landscape. It’s also the 70th (yes, 70th) venture from veteran restaurateur Hemant Bhagwani.

Related: This Toronto hotel’s new restaurant is fusing Indian and British flavours

For now, Oro defines itself as a modern Indian restaurant, which translates to small plates with Mediterranean influence here and there. “I’ve travelled a lot,” says Bhagwani. “Oro’s first menu reflects both where I was born and many of the places I’ve been.” Unlike most restaurants, where the concept stays fixed even as the menu changes, Oro is designed to evolve entirely—its concept, its chef, even its space. “I’ve always had a short attention span with restaurants, so Oro is my answer to this problem. It’s my passion project.”

Hemant Bhagwani
Chef and owner Hemant Bhagwani

Bhagwani plans to reinvent the restaurant each year, a kind of pop-up on repeat, in an effort to keep pace with a city of diners always looking for something new. He already has someone lined up for next year’s iteration. “Younger chefs need kitchens to express themselves,” he says. “As someone who has spent his life in the restaurant world, I’m thrilled to give them that platform.”

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Related: Bindi’s Burgers, an Indian-inspired smash burger operation inside a Little Italy bar

The exterior of ORO, an Indian restaurant in Toronto's Little Italy
The Food

Mediterranean favourites collide with Indian flavour profiles, and classic Indian dishes are reborn in inventive forms—it’s a card of culinary crossovers. Think burrata paired with silky saag and crunchy boondi, all scooped up with garlic naan; avocado tartare reimagined as an elegant chaat; or sweet-and-sour balchao elevated with lobster and served on thick-cut toast crowned with truffle shavings.

The chicken and caviar dish at Oro
One of the menu’s starters, the Chicken and Caviar begins with chicken thighs marinated overnight in Indian spices. They’re panko-coated and fried to a golden crisp, then finished with chives, sour cream and a dollop of caviar. $24

 

A kind of deconstructed samosa, this snack tucks the spiced potato and pea filling into a delicate tart shell
A kind of deconstructed samosa, this snack tucks the spiced potato-and-pea filling into a delicate tart shell. It’s a light, crisp bite that bursts with cool yogurt, juicy pomegranate, mint and sweet corn. $18

 

A chicken kebab
The Charred Chicken represents butter chicken as it existed before British influence introduced tomato to the recipe. This take on the classic version blends whey protein, masala spices, cheddar cheese and butter for its base. Chicken breast is drenched in the marinade, skewered, grilled in the clay oven, then finished with red onion and microgreens. $28

 

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Yellowtail crudo
Bhagwani went back to his childhood to give this yellowtail crudo a soulful glow-up. Inspired by citrusy shikanji (Indian lemonade he used to drink after cricket games), the delicate fish is cured in that same bright mix, then dusted with chaat masala, toasted quinoa, coriander, lemon zest, and pickled red and serrano chilies. It’s finished with wasabi leaves and edible petals for a final flourish. $24

 

Two slow-cooked pork tacos on paratha
Bhagwani felt compelled to do a taco given that the space formerly housed La Carnita. His version tops a mini paratha with South Indian–inspired slow-cooked pork, garlic aïoli and fresh chives. $24

 

The smoked avocado tartare, done in the style of chaat, arrives beneath a glass cloche
The smoked avocado tartare, done in the style of chaat, arrives beneath a glass cloche. Layers of avocado, pomegranate, tamarind-and-mint chutney, yogurt, cucumber, onion, tomato, puffed rice and sev are stacked neatly in a tower. It’s all smoked tableside with applewood and revealed in a swirl of fragrant haze on a golden plate. Puffed sago chips are served alongside for scooping

 

Smoked avocado tartare
Here’s the finished dish, after the smoke has cleared. $22

 

Hummus is crowned with tender grilled calamari and shrimp, then scattered with golden okra strings, whole chickpeas, a drizzle of chili-infused olive oil and a bright hit of sumac and fresh parsley
Hummus is crowned with tender grilled calamari and shrimp, then scattered with golden okra strings, whole chickpeas, a drizzle of chili-infused olive oil, and a bright hit of sumac and fresh parsley. It’s served with naan fresh from the tandoor. $26

 

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The Butter Chicken Kulchezza is basically an Indian version of a thin-crust pizza
The Butter Chicken Kulchezza is basically Bhagwani’s version of a thin-crust pizza. It starts with gruyère-stuffed naan piled high with butter chicken (the tomatoey kind, this time), then topped with more gruyère, baked, and finished with oven-roasted tomatoes and fresh basil. $28

 

Classic tiramisu arrives wrapped in a sheet of acetate that’s peeled away tableside for a playful, dramatic splat
Classic tiramisu arrives wrapped in a sheet of acetate that’s peeled away tableside for a playful, dramatic splat that’s best appreciated in slow motion on TikTok

 

Tiramisu
Here’s the reveal. $18
The Drinks

Despite his dedication to personal rebranding, Bhagwani describes himself as “old school” when it comes to wine, so the list leans on the classics and rarely strays. And while the martini remains Oro’s most celebrated cocktail, several drinks push past the conventional, weaving in culinary accents like saffron, tamarind, chilies and something called “celery air.”

The Mango Chipotle Clarified Cocktail combines the earthy spice of chipotle and the smooth kick of tequila with the fruity depth of mango
The Mango Chipotle Clarified Cocktail combines the earthy spice of chipotle and the smooth kick of tequila with the fruity depth of mango. Clarification gives it a crystal-clear golden hue and an elegant, silky texture, while the subtle sweetness of mango rounds off the chipotle spice—a little fire, a lot of fruit. $22

 

A bartender strains a margarita into a glass
The Cucumber Mezcal pairs cool, refreshing cucumber with the smokiness of mezcal, rounded out by a drizzle of honey chili syrup for gentle warmth and a whisper of celery bitters for a subtle vegetal note
The Cucumber Mezcal pairs cool, refreshing cucumber with the smokiness of mezcal, rounded out by a drizzle of honey-chili syrup for gentle warmth and a whisper of celery bitters for a subtle vegetal note. $22

 

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Golden saffron lends its luxurious aroma and hue, while a smoky, boozy blend of dark rum, whiskey, and herbal Benedictine gives the Saffron Smoke real depth
Golden saffron lends its luxurious aroma and hue, while a smoky, boozy blend of dark rum, whiskey and herbal Benedictine gives the Saffron Smoke real depth. Sip slowly—not just because you’re a responsible adult but to savour the lingering layers of flavour. $24
A bartender drops ice into a martini glass
A martini on a bar cart
Martinis are crafted tableside. Market price
The Space

Balancing warmth with contemporary elegance, the room references India’s old-world opulence through extravagant archways, gilded lighting and wall details, jewel-hued banquettes, and detailed millwork.

The bar at ORO
Shelves of backlit wine bottles
Two-top tables next to golden-hued walls in the dining room of ORO
Shelves lined with decorative items at ORO, a modern Indian restaurant in Toronto
A back corner of ORO's dining room, featuring red velvet couch-style seating
The streetside patio at ORO in Little Italy

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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