A cook does some prep work at the bar before opening (Image: Renée Suen)
Yours Truly, a new restaurant and bar on the still-hot Ossington strip, opened with no great fanfare in mid-December, but now it’s causing quite a stir. Behind the place are ex-Vancouverites Matt Cherkas, Dan Hawkins and Aleem Jamal-Kabani, who found that Toronto put up a less fierce barrier to entry than their hometown did. Initially, they’d planned on opening a little watering hole to call their own with a few bar snacks, but everything changed after they found their new chef, Jeff Claudio. At only 28, Claudio has an impressive pedigree: he’s worked at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York, Rockpool in Sydney and the Toronto branch of Scarpetta, where he was chef de cuisine. He also staged at Noma (a.k.a. the best restaurant in the world) and two of Chicago’s best restaurants, Alinea and Charlie Trotter’s. Hence the buzz.
Claudio, also a B.C. native, tells us his modernist-tinged food is the result of close collaboration with his kitchen crew. The daily four-course prix fixe menu ($45 for meat, $35 for vegetarian) is inspired by ingredient availability—not to mention the kitchen’s lack of storage space—and available until 10 p.m. On a given night, selections might include a roulade of Chanteclair Rouge chicken from Sheridan Specialties dusted with a toasted shallot and chicken skin crumble; pan-seared Kolapore Springs trout on a pool of whipped potatoes with lovage, crisp torn croutons and potato chips; or a meaty roasted heirloom carrot on yogurt, topped with a rainbow of thinly sliced persimmons, nasturtiums, purslane and toasted wheatberries. The main event is preceded by a parade of amuse-bouches, like whimsical “truffle” falafel balls, lobster bisque topped with lobster powder or compressed spinach with cider vinegar gel, whipped buttermilk and rye crumbs. There’s also a menu of Asian-inspired bar snacks, which include celery aïoli–dressed lobster tucked inside masa bread ($14 for two), pork ssam ($7) made from pan-seared and honey-glazed pork belly that’s cooked in duck fat, and sweet inari tofu pockets stuffed with a mixture of Portuguese salted cod, sesame, toasted seaweed and sushi rice ($6 a pair).
Set to seat 52 by February (currently there’s room for 38), the former Galaxy Donuts space is full of all kinds of repurposed chic. Jason Stroud (Stroudfoot)—who designed Kultura, Colborne Lane and Origin—was responsible for outfitting the open room, from filling in the 100-year-old polished terrazzo flooring to procuring the warm copper pendant light shades and the custom-made lacquered concrete tables below. Perched high on a shelf near the centre of the room is the restaurant’s mascot, a walking figure with a top hat, created by B.C. sculptor Logan Sturrock; across the room is the bar, complete with a bar top made from reclaimed Distillery District wood and beer taps fashioned out of old steam pipes. Bar manager Shane Roberts’sdrink list includes select wine and beer, as well as classic cocktails like French 75s and Sazeracs, and house specialties like the clementine-infused Alibi and bourbon- and Fernet-dominated Rare Earth ($9–$12).
Lobster roll ($14 for a pair): celery aïoli–dressed chunks of lobster tucked inside toasted masa bread (picked up from a neighbourhood bakery)
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Pickles ($6): pickled pepper beets, spicy green beans, turnips and garlic-rubbed grilled Petite Thuet multi-grain toast. The pickle plate is sided with smoked onion bagna càuda, seasoned with mustard, extra virgin canola oil and Maldon salt
Pickles ($6): pickled pepper beets, spicy green beans, turnips and garlic-rubbed grilled Petite Thuet multi-grain toast. The pickle plate is sided with smoked onion bagna càuda, seasoned with mustard, extra virgin canola oil and Maldon salt
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Salt cod ($6 per pair): inari tofu pockets stuffed with Portuguese salt cod, sesame, toasted seaweed and sushi rice mixture, served with a horseradish Kewpie mayonnaise. Claudio tells us this snack plate was an attempt to combine sushi with the cuisine of Yours Truly’s Little Portugal neighbourhood
Salt cod ($6 per pair): inari tofu pockets stuffed with Portuguese salt cod, sesame, toasted seaweed and sushi rice mixture, served with a horseradish Kewpie mayonnaise. Claudio tells us this snack plate was an attempt to combine sushi with the cuisine of Yours Truly’s Little Portugal neighbourhood
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Winter dessert ($7): silky applewood panna cotta topped with crabapple jelly, compressed apples and pears, meringue, molasses powder, buttermilk snow and mint leaves
Winter dessert ($7): silky applewood panna cotta topped with crabapple jelly, compressed apples and pears, meringue, molasses powder, buttermilk snow and mint leaves
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Daily special: chorizo mash with fried duck egg from Sunrise Farms, mashed potatoes and smoked migas bread crumbs ($13)
Daily special: chorizo mash with fried duck egg from Sunrise Farms, mashed potatoes and smoked migas bread crumbs ($13)
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(Image: Riley Stewart)
Smoked potato purée with lovage, crisp torn croutons and potato chips, topped tableside with a cider cream and dill sauce (this replaces the trout dish on the tasting menu, for vegetarians)
Smoked potato purée with lovage, crisp torn croutons and potato chips, topped tableside with a cider cream and dill sauce (this replaces the trout dish on the tasting menu, for vegetarians)
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(Image: Riley Stewart)
A fillet of pan-seared Kolapore Springs trout on a pool of smoked potato purée with lovage, crisp torn croutons and potato chips, drizzled with a salted milk–canola sauce
A fillet of pan-seared Kolapore Springs trout on a pool of smoked potato purée with lovage, crisp torn croutons and potato chips, drizzled with a salted milk–canola sauce
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(Image: Renée Suen)
A roulade of Chanteclair Rouge chicken, a heritage breed from Sheridan Specialties in Waterloo, that comes on a bean ragout seasoned with parsley oil and sautéed dandelion. The plate is dusted with a fine toasted shallot and chicken skin crumble
A roulade of Chanteclair Rouge chicken, a heritage breed from Sheridan Specialties in Waterloo, that comes on a bean ragout seasoned with parsley oil and sautéed dandelion. The plate is dusted with a fine toasted shallot and chicken skin crumble
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Roasted heirloom carrots on yogurt with marinated carrots dressed in watercress vinaigrette, topped with a rainbow of thinly sliced persimmons, nasturtiums, purslane and nutty puffed wheatberries
Roasted heirloom carrots on yogurt with marinated carrots dressed in watercress vinaigrette, topped with a rainbow of thinly sliced persimmons, nasturtiums, purslane and nutty puffed wheatberries
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(Image: Renée Suen)
In this amuse-bouche, bite-sized falafels shaped like truffles—complete with wrinkly charred shell and a fluffy moist interior—are presented in a glass jar with Arborio rice, just like how real truffles are stored
In this amuse-bouche, bite-sized falafels shaped like truffles—complete with wrinkly charred shell and a fluffy moist interior—are presented in a glass jar with Arborio rice, just like how real truffles are stored
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Sous-chef John Vetere (ex-Scarpetta) bathes a fresh Perth pork belly with cans of duck fat (we’re sure it’s all very healthy)
Bar manager Shane Roberts works with co-owner Dan Hawkins on Yours Truly’s drinks, with Roberts specializing more in the classics and Hawkins focusing on more modern and “molecular” concoctions
Bar manager Shane Roberts works with co-owner Dan Hawkins on Yours Truly’s drinks, with Roberts specializing more in the classics and Hawkins focusing on more modern and “molecular” concoctions
…you had me at the Kitchen Planning Board/Clipboard shot..no running outta stuff at this joint…
Cannot wait.
This is one of the great things about life in Toronto. Great food and lots of culture!
http://rentstarlight.com/toronto/
I’d hardly call YT an addition to the hot Ossington strip…it’s almost at Dupont. Which is great, because Duponters need better places to eat.
I spoke too soon. So what’s that lonely resto on Ossington south of Dupont, then?
@ebs uh… it’s just south of Dundas. And duponters definitely need better places to eat. desperately.
I just note that you are missing the last digit in the phone number, it is 2243 not 224! For those of you that wanted to call the restaurant like I did. Thanks!
Thanks Emma—we’ve updated the post.
Not only is Jeff a super nice guy and down to earth ( I shared nachos with him at Sneaky Dees once with the Scarpetta crew), his local menu is truly inspired and inspiring. Can’t wait to try it out!
http://jennysfood.blogspot.com
had my bday dinner her last night and had a great experience. food was delish, nice atmosphere, amazing value, good service. will definitely be back!
My girlfriend and I have eaten here twice already and we are frackin’ in love with it. The staff is so knowledgeable, the food is unreal and the vibe is super chill. All of this awesomeness and $5 beers? Yeah, I’d say we’ve found or new spot!
Excited to get a table last night. Huge disappointment. Food wavered between unappetizing to off-putting. Staff lacked any passion for the food – especially as a hot new spot. After loving Ursa last week, we had such high hopes for another great addition to the Queen/Ossington ‘hood. Sadly, we wouldn’t recommend Yours Truly even to people we dont like.. .