Although we’ve been watching his progress as a contender on season two of Top Chef Canada, we haven’t heard much from Carl Heinrich since his February announcement that he was leaving his gig as head chef at Marben along with his culinary partner in crime Ryan Donovan. And while Donovan has teased followers with cryptic messages about the location of their new project, we recently got confirmation that something is indeed in the pipeline. Heinrich told us that he and Donovan will be opening up a restaurant in late July, where they’ll serve farm-to-table cuisine full of quality local ingredients and prepared with the classic technique the pair is known for. In the meantime, both Heinrich and Donovan have been busy working with West Side Beef and on various side projects. To get a taste of what diners will be in for, Heinrich invited us up to the Kolapore Springs fish hatchery near Collingwood, where he prepared a preview meal.
Kolapore Springs is a well-known supplier of sustainable trout for places like Hooked, and its products are used by many of Toronto’s top restaurants. After a hiking tour of the Kolapore Uplands with hatchery owner Sean Brady, Heinrich, sans electricity, prepared a feast using locally produced foods over a wood-burning stove. Guests were treated to an elaborate spread featuring Kolapore Springs trout, The New Farm vegetables, meats from West Side Beef and Dingo Farms and cheese from Monforte Dairy.Norman Hardie Winery supplied the tipple that washed everything down. Check out our gallery of the excursion and the feast that Heinrich and Donovan prepared »
Guests included Spotlight Toronto’s Suresh Doss and Nina Popovic, seen here taking a short break outside by the fire with a warm aperitif of bourbon and apple cider
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Guests included Spotlight Toronto’s Suresh Doss and Nina Popovic, seen here taking a short break outside by the fire with a warm aperitif of bourbon and apple cider
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(Image: Renée Suen)
West Side Beef/Dingo Farms beef three ways: roasted marrow; braised shank over polenta from Pristine Gourmet, with watercress; roasted rib-eye. The course was served with a brown butter hollandaise, not unlike the preparation in <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/daily/daily-dish/tv-diner/2012/04/17/top-chef-canada-recap-episode-6/">episode six</a> of <em>Top Chef Canada</em>
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
West Side Beef/Dingo Farms beef three ways: roasted marrow; braised shank over polenta from Pristine Gourmet, with watercress; roasted rib-eye. The course was served with a brown butter hollandaise, not unlike the preparation in episode six of Top Chef Canada
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(Image: Renée Suen)
A side dish of German butterball potatoes and an assortment of sautéed Northern Woods Mushrooms including oyster, beech, cinnamon cap, shiitake and lion’s mane
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
A side dish of German butterball potatoes and an assortment of sautéed Northern Woods Mushrooms including oyster, beech, cinnamon cap, shiitake and lion’s mane
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(Image: Renée Suen)
A drizzle of ramp vinaigrette was added tableside
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Heinrich explaining to the guests—a mix of friends, food producers and food writers—what was on each platter
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The impressive Kolapore Springs rainbow trout course prepared three ways. From left: hot-smoked trout over white bean hummus; grilled trout with poached New Farm eggs and ramp vinaigrette; Monforte crème fraîche and watercress; Gravlox-style trout with red onions, capers and dill. The butter was made from Harmony Organics cream and served with phenomenal Parker rolls made with the buttermilk left from the butter making
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The impressive Kolapore Springs rainbow trout course prepared three ways. From left: hot-smoked trout over white bean hummus; grilled trout with poached New Farm eggs and ramp vinaigrette; Monforte crème fraîche and watercress; Gravlox-style trout with red onions, capers and dill. The butter was made from Harmony Organics cream and served with phenomenal Parker rolls made with the buttermilk left from the butter making
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The impressive Kolapore Springs rainbow trout course prepared three ways. From left: hot-smoked trout over white bean hummus; grilled trout with poached New Farm eggs and ramp vinaigrette; Monforte crème fraîche and watercress; Gravlox-style trout with red onions, capers and dill. The butter was made from Harmony Organics cream and served with phenomenal Parker rolls made with the buttermilk left from the butter making
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The impressive Kolapore Springs rainbow trout course prepared three ways. From left: hot-smoked trout over white bean hummus; grilled trout with poached New Farm eggs and ramp vinaigrette; Monforte crème fraîche and watercress; Gravlox-style trout with red onions, capers and dill. The butter was made from Harmony Organics cream and served with phenomenal Parker rolls made with the buttermilk left from the butter making
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The trout platter being plated in front of guests
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The fresh rainbow trout finished briefly on a grill
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Sean Brady (Kolapore Springs) speaking with Norman Hardie (Norman Hardie Winery). Norman Hardie Winery supplied a bevy of wines, including the Pinot Gris 2010, County Chardonnay 2009 and County Pinot Noir 2009
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Sean Brady (Kolapore Springs) speaking with Norman Hardie (Norman Hardie Winery). Norman Hardie Winery supplied a bevy of wines, including the Pinot Gris 2010, County Chardonnay 2009 and County Pinot Noir 2009
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Some open kitchen action
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Seared Monforte Dairy summer sausage, which Heinrich served with homemade pitas and hummus made with Pristine Gourmet white beans
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The feast’s opening volley: Monforte Dairy summer sausage and Little Prince goat cheese, Kozliks’ triple-crunch mustard, homemade hummus using Pristine Gourmet white beans and pita breads by Heinrich
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The feast’s opening volley: Monforte Dairy summer sausage and Little Prince goat cheese, Kozliks’ triple-crunch mustard, homemade hummus using Pristine Gourmet white beans and pita breads by Heinrich
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Guests warmed up with a mushroom consommé featuring lion’s mane mushrooms from Northern Woods Mushrooms, chased with a glass of sherry
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Guests warmed up with a mushroom consommé featuring lion’s mane mushrooms from Northern Woods Mushrooms, chased with a glass of sherry
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Chefs Ryan Donovan and Carl Heinrich. Heinrich prepared the meal over a wood-burning stove, which he told us reminded him of the cabin in which he spent his summers as a child
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Chefs Ryan Donovan and Carl Heinrich. Heinrich prepared the meal over a wood-burning stove, which he told us reminded him of the cabin in which he spent his summers as a child
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Tiny freshwater shrimp collected from the forest streams running to Kolapore Springs become food for trout in the hatchery, giving the fish flesh its vibrant colour
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Tiny freshwater shrimp collected from the forest streams running to Kolapore Springs become food for trout in the hatchery, giving the fish flesh its vibrant colour
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(Image: Renée Suen)
Eggs are fertilized and allowed to develop into tadpoles before they’re transferred to larger water tanks
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
Eggs are fertilized and allowed to develop into tadpoles before they’re transferred to larger water tanks
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(Image: Renée Suen)
At Kolapore Springs, Sean Brady (pictured) and his business partner Bruce Green have created a natural and sustainable fish farm for local market consumption
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
At Kolapore Springs, Sean Brady (pictured) and his business partner Bruce Green have created a natural and sustainable fish farm for local market consumption
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The water from the two streams is colder than at most commercial fish farms, which results in healthier, firmer-fleshed fish
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The concrete raceway, with highly oxygenated water
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The water source for the hatchery is unique because it’s downstream from two forest streams that run under the Kolapore Uplands forest floor. The result is a collection of enzyme-rich microorganisms and tiny freshwater shrimp that give the trout flesh its vibrant colour
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The water source for the hatchery is unique because it’s downstream from two forest streams that run under the Kolapore Uplands forest floor. The result is a collection of enzyme-rich microorganisms and tiny freshwater shrimp that give the trout flesh its vibrant colour
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(Image: Renée Suen)
The Kolapore Springs fish hatchery in the Kolapore Uplands near Collingwood. The fishery is only in its third year of operation but has gained a reputation for very high-quality product
Catching up with Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan at Kolapore Springs
The Kolapore Springs fish hatchery in the Kolapore Uplands near Collingwood. The fishery is only in its third year of operation but has gained a reputation for very high-quality product
Nice aprons.
Great day spent by all, too bad that most of it is a sham.
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