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Food & Drink

Where chef Clay Smith eats in Hamilton and Dundas

His favourite spots for seafood, birria and cocktails

By Tiffany Leigh| Photography by Tiffany Leigh
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Chef Clay Smith puts some hot sauce on a torta
Photo by Tiffany Leigh

Personal chef Clay Smith has been tapping into his social media side. “I’m still a hired chef for clients, and I conduct at-home cooking classes, but I’ve also been leaning in to content creation—in terms of educating and empowering people about food and how to help them cook better,” Smith says. His idea is to do something like Australian chef Curtis Stone’s Take Home Chef series—but instead, the menu planning and ingredient shopping would be done at home and on the fly. “Whoever I’m cooking a meal for, I’d raid their pantry and do a blind cook, while supplying them with helpful tips and tools they can use every day,” he says.

Chef Clay Smith uses a camera to take a photo of his food at Pinbones restaurant

Related: Where Pearl Morissette chef Eric Robertson eats in Hamilton

Smith was born and raised in Hamilton, and he still calls Steeltown home. He can now hop from one great grocery store or restaurant to the next, but it wasn’t always this way. “When I was growing up, Hamilton had the worst food scene,” says Smith. “There were a lot of chain restaurants run by corporate folks, but in the last 10 to 15 years, it’s definitely shifted.”

“Toronto is good, but I would argue that Hamilton is a gem. It’s still got that grit and, more importantly, something to prove. In my humble opinion, the quality, taste and pricing at the restaurants here is better,” Smith says.

Chef Clay Smith holds up a tuna taco at Pinbones in Dundas, Ontario

Related: Matty Matheson is opening a 9,500-square-foot restaurant in Hamilton

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Here are a few of his favourite restaurants in Hamilton and what he orders at each.


Pinbones Fish Market

65 King St. W., Dundas, pinbones.ca

“I always shop here for the freshest seafood—for my clients and for myself. Before, I used to have to travel to Toronto, but now I just ask the fishmonger what they recommend and go from there. Their restaurant is very popular with locals and out-of-towners. While the lobster roll is a go-to for many, I always show love for their other dishes just because it’s a fun menu to explore.”

The exterior of Pinbones in Dundas, Ontario
A display case houses fresh shellfish at Pinbones

Go-to dish #1: Buffalo halibut cheeks with blue cheese and crudités

“It’s delicious, and I think you’re gonna be surprised by the texture. It’s a bit like chicken skin but creamier. The buffalo sauce it’s coated in is very umami-forward: tangy, savoury and just a touch spicy.”

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Buffalo halibut cheeks

Go-to dish #2: Tuna tacos with kimchi, aïoli, avocado and sesame, served in fried wonton shells

“It’s a perfect marriage of all the flavours because you can taste the sesame and the creamy tuna, but no element overwhelms the other—there’s harmony. The fish remains the star of the show, though.”

Two tuna tacos

Go-to dish #3: Grilled whole fish of the day with sun-dried tomatoes, seasonal vegetables and house gremolata

“The gremolata is not overpowering—it’s very well balanced. The fish is flaky, and there’s a perfect char on the skin. Then the cauliflower sprouts bring salinity, and the charred tomatoes and red peppers bring in a welcome amount of acidity to act as a sort of palate cleanser for the whole dish.”

A person uses a knife and fork to cut into a whole grilled branzino
Latin Food and Products

35 York Blvd., Hamilton, latinfoodshamilton.com

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“This place has been in the Hamilton Farmers’ Market for 15 years. It’s owned and operated by Sonia Linarea and her two sons, Bryan and Brandon. Bryan has a business background, and Brandon has a culinary degree. I initially came here to shop for ingredients—like their masa flour, tamarind and dried chilies—but eventually I started coming here for the great counter service as well.

Looking from the second floor to the main floor of the Hamilton Farmers' Market
The counter at Latin Food and Products inside the Hamilton Farmers' Market
Shelves stocked with tortillas and goods imported from Latin America at Latin Food and Products

Go-to dish #1: Torta with roast pork, pineapple, onion, cilantro and mayonnaise

“I always love their house hot sauces. It’s a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure situation. This time, I’m adding the habanero salsa. One bite of this tastes like Mexico. It has all the spice profiles you want, then you get a hit of heat that lingers but doesn’t obliterate your taste buds. The pineapple gives it that sweetness, the mayo brings a rounded creaminess and the pork is super tender.”

A Mexican torta

Go-to dish #2: Potato empanadas with aji

“Potatoes are such an underrated ingredient—people don’t give these tubers enough love. But they’re the star of this dish, and rightly so. They’re so delicious and heightened with some house pico de gallo.”

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Two empanadas with pico de gallo

Go-to dish #3: Birria short rib

“I like how you can taste everything, and nothing competes with anything else. The short rib is just, wow—it’s super juicy and savoury. And you also get those deep Mexican spices, like smoked chili. It gives such delicious barbacoa vibes.”

Three birria tacos
A closeup of a birria taco with a bite out of it
Jars of house-made salsa
Bar Sazerac

278 James St. N., Hamilton, barsazerac.ca

“I love to support this spot because I’ve previously done gigs with the owners, Kyle and Jennifer Ferreira. This bar never disappoints. I like to let the bartending team choose the cocktails for me—they never steer me wrong. The only guidelines I give them are to send me something that’s refreshing and not too sweet.”

The exterior of Bar Sazerac in Hamilton, Ontario
The bartender at Bar Sazerac tops up a cocktail with soda water

Go-to drink #1: The Victoria (Collective Arts rhubarb-hibiscus gin, Aperol, cucumber syrup, lemon juice, soda)

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“It’s so refreshing and perfect for a hot summer day. It reminds me of an adult pink lemonade.”

Two cocktails at Bar Sazerac in Hamilton

Go-to drink #2: The Quebec 82 (caraway-infused vodka, lemon juice, blueberry mint cordial, sparkling wine)

“This is another perfect summer drink. It’s got some sweetness, but it’s balanced out with a welcome tart finish.”

The Quebec 82 cocktail at Bar Sazerac

Go-to dish: Chicken liver brûlée with melba toast and cornichons

“You would think the brûléed top would make this on the sweet side, but instead it adds character, depth and a savouriness. The chicken liver itself is very smooth, almost like a dense mousse. And the tangy cornichons are a great palate cleanser between bites.”

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An order of chicken liver paté with cornichons and crostini

Tiffany Leigh is an award-winning freelance journalist with degrees in business communications and education. She has a culinary background, is a recipient of the Clay Triplette James Beard Foundation scholarship award and has worked in restaurants such as Langdon Hall. In addition to Toronto Life, her pieces have been read in publications such as Forbes, Vogue, Eater, Dwell, Elle, Business Insider, Playboy, Food & Wine and Bon Appétit.

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