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Food & Drink

Where Pearl Morissette chef Eric Robertson eats in Hamilton

His favourite spots for oysters, Detroit-style pizza and chicken wings

By Renée Suen| Photography by Renée Suen
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Chef Eric Robertson looks at a pizza at Maipai

When Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants list was announced in May, it was a Niagara Benchlands kitchen that took the top spot. In Jordan Station, Eric Robertson and Daniel Hadida own and operate Restaurant Pearl Morissette. Already the recipient of a Michelin star—and a Michelin green star for its commitment to sustainable practices—the restaurant is also a winery, a bakery, and a 17-hectare regenerative farm, orchard and garden.

Originally from Brantford, Robertson applied to culinary school at 18 but put cooking on hold to pursue a career as a semi-pro cyclist, racing with the national team. “I was training for the Tour de France. Back then, you didn’t really get to that level until you were like 26, and that was a big commitment,” says Robertson. “I didn’t know if I could do that. So I started to work in restaurants again.”

Related: Ten restaurants, bars and cafés worth the trip to Hamilton

Chef Eric Robertson stands outside of Le Tambour Tavern in Hamilton, Ontario

Early on, Robertson worked at Toronto’s Colborne Lane, followed by stints in a series of Michelin-starred kitchens in Spain (El Celler de Can Roca), France (La Grenouillère), Sweden (Fäviken) and Belgium (In de Wulf). He moved back to Ontario a decade ago and began commuting from his home in Hamilton to Toronto, where he was working as a butcher at Cumbrae’s while his then-girlfriend (now wife) pursued a career in health care. During his time at Cumbrae’s, he built connections to the local vendors, suppliers and contractors he would end up calling upon when he opened his own restaurant.

We had Robertson take us to his favourite spots around Hamilton.

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Related: Matty Matheson is opening a 9,500-square-foot restaurant in Hamilton


The Brain Bar

199 James St. N., 289-396-8508, @herecomesthebrain

“The Brain is my favourite place in the world, and it’s a fixture in the downtown core. It’s a beer bar, but it’s very artsy, very eclectic—very Hamilton. The city has a big arts and music community, and the Brain attracts a fringe artsy crowd. In the early days of the restaurant, back before I had kids, I’d come here after service on Monday night with Liam, a cook who’s now head chef. That was our weekend. Every staff party used to end up here—or at a karaoke place down the road. When we won a Michelin star last year, we celebrated at the Brain. We didn’t come here after winning Canada’s 100 Best this year, though, because we have too many staff members now, and it’s a small bar. But this is the best place in Hamilton. I love it.”

Chef Eric Robertson stands outside of the Brain, a bar in Hamilton, Ontario

Go-to drink: Beer

“There’s a good rotating tap list, so I’ll usually grab a pint. I like a pilsner or a wheat beer but will often try something I haven’t had before, depending on the taps. They have a good selection of Belgian beers too, so when I’m feeling nostalgic for the old country, I’ll have one of those.”

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Chef Eric Robertson drinks an espresso at the bar inside the Brain
Robertson with what is admittedly not a beer

Go-to dish: Rotating homemade pies

“The pies here are really good. We used to grab pizza nearby, then come here for dessert. The same woman has been making the pies for years, and the flavours are always different and sometimes a little bit crazy. There’s been apple-rhubarb, key lime, Oreo and always some kind of cheesecake.

A selection of pies inside a display case

Maisy’s Pearl Oyster Bar

342 Barton St. E., Hamilton, 289-389-1870, maisyspearl.com

“Maisy’s Pearl has been open for about a year now, and my wife and I have already been a few times. I dream about it. It’s hard for me not to eat a ton here. It’s like an oyster bar, but they also have clam strips and good beer. It’s in Barton Village, an up-and-coming neighbourhood. Like a lot of cities, that’s where the fun places are—the restaurants that are taking risks.”

Chef Eric Robertson stands outside Maisy's Pearl in Hamilton

Go-to dish #1: Oysters on the half shell, dealer’s choice

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“They have super-knowledgeable staff here—I’ve learned more about oysters and shellfish just sitting here having dinner than I have in my years of cooking.”

A person shucks oysters behind a bar
A plate of shucked oysters on ice

Go-to dish #2: Fried clams with tartar or cocktail sauce

“I love the clam strips they do here. I used to eat them a lot when I was a kid. My favourite place on earth is Port Dover. It’s embarrassing how many times I’ve driven up to Knechtel’s on the Beach by myself and just sat there with a fried perch sandwich and clam strips. It’s absolute heaven.”

A plate of deep-fried clams with lemon and sauces

Go-to dish #3: The daily special

“The last time I was here, I got the seafood chowder special. I ate it after being sick for what felt like two weeks, and I was absolutely spent. But the chowder was perfect—I was in heaven. I was intrigued by this soft-shell crab special, which I saw on Instagram earlier.”

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Deep-fried soft-shell crab with fresh herbs
A can of Pearl's Pilsner next to a pint of beer
Chef Eric Robertson uses his phone to take a photo of a plate of shucked oysters

Maipai

631 Barton St. E., 905-581-9030, maipai.ca

“I’ve been coming here for three years. It’s known for its tropical cocktails and Detroit-style pizza. We’ve held our holiday staff parties here for the past couple of years—everyone from the winery, the restaurant, the garden and the bakery. We buy out the restaurant so we can have it to ourselves. It’s awesome. And my brother loves it here. So whenever he comes to Hamilton, he’s like, We’re going to Maipai.”

Chef Eric Robertson stands outside Maipai, a pizzeria in Hamilton, and points at the restaurant's sign

Go-to dish #1: Pepperoni pile-on

“It’s a classic. Like a lot of kids in the suburbs, I was raised on Pizza Hut pizza. This is Detroit-style pizza, so it’s absolutely delicious. I like it because it’s saucy. It’s not too spicy, and it goes well with the cocktails.”

A Detroit-style pepperoni pizza at Maipai in Hamilton
Chef Eric Robertson with a tropical cocktail at the bar inside Hamilton's Maipai
The Cocojito, a pisco-based cocktail made with aged rum, lemon, mint and coconut syrup

Le Tambour Tavern

345 James St. N., 289-389-5255, letambourtavern.com

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“This used to be a concert hall and bar called This Ain’t Hollywood. They hosted all kinds of live musical acts, but mostly punk shows. I always try to imagine it as it was before, because they did such a good job converting the space. The stage area used to be where the washrooms are now. A door in the kitchen still has a bunch of band stickers on it. I come here for work meetings and for cocktails. They have a fun wine list that’s very approachable and a good selection of beers, but I always go for the lager.”

The exterior of Le Tambour Tavern in Hamilton, Ontario

Go-to dish #1: Smoked habanero honey wings

“I like a mild wing sauce, like ketchup mixed with Frank’s. I had these two weeks ago, and I’ve been thinking about them ever since. They do them over the hearth, so they’re smoky. They’re grilled, not deep-fried, and almost black from the barbecue sauce. I think about these every day. Wings are delicious—the best part of the chicken.”

A plate of chicken wings

Go-to dish #2: The Manhattan Foster

“The cocktails here are inventive and delicious every time. They’re rooted in classics, which is nice because you get something unique but also familiar. The Manhattan Foster is delicious. It’s made with rye, banana, chai vermouth, Frangelico and bitters. The banana adds a little caramel flavour to it, which is nice.”

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Chef Eric Robertson holds a cocktail at the bar inside Le Tambour Tavern, a restaurant in Hamilton
The bar and dining room at Le Tambour Tavern, a restaurant in Hamilton, Ontario

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