What’s on the menu at La Plume, a new French restaurant and speakeasy inside the Well

Including five types of tartare and five different steak frites

By Jessica Huras| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves

| May 7, 2024

What's on the menu at La Plume, a new French restaurant and speakeasy inside the Well

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Name: La Plume Contact: 453 Wellington St. W., laplumebrasserie.com, @laplumebrasserie
Neighbourhood: Wellington Place Owners: Oliver and Bonacini Chef: District executive chef John Horne and executive chef Navinder Saini (Parcheggio) Accessibility: Fully accessible

O&B’s second restaurant in the Well (and not its last) was inspired by district executive chef John Horne’s time living in southern France during the early days of his culinary career. “It was such a great experience at that point in my life, and I needed it–especially for my cooking,” he says. “It’s still close to my heart.”

La Plume chef de cuisine Navinder Saini and district executive chef John Horne — Executive chef Navinder Saini and district executive chef John Horne

The emphasis on southern French cuisine is also an effort to distinguish La Plume from other French restaurants in the city, including heavyweight Le Sélect, which is right across the street. “No one is doing this kind of French cooking here—it’s very different,” says Horne.

The name, La Plume, which means “the feather” in French, evokes a sense of whimsy to match the light and breezy cooking style—but also serves as a cheeky reference to the restaurant’s signature rotisserie chicken.

A spread of dishes at La Plume, a new French restaurant in Toronto from Oliver and Bonacini

The food

Southern French cooking is a departure from the rich, butter-heavy dishes typically associated with bistro fare. According to Horne, southern French cuisine tends to favour simpler, more vibrant flavours.

La Plume chef de cuisine Navinder Saini plates an order of steak

The menu also displays some Mediterranean influence. “If you go down to Nice, you’ll see grandmothers making tortellini and gnocchi,” says Horne. “Torontonians are passionate about French food, but they also really love Italian, and we get to skirt that line with this.”

The tartare menu at La Plume features five playful takes on the classic French recipe — The tartare menu features five playful takes on the classic French recipe. “I have a love affair with tartare,” says Horne. “I love being able to offer a multitude of them and have fun with it.” Every tartare is served with grilled baguette, taro chips, potato chips and house-pickled veggies

This vegetarian tartare is made with braised portobello and cremini mushrooms, plus a little truffle cream — This vegetarian riff is made with braised portobello and cremini mushrooms, plus a little truffle cream. $20

For this tartare, hunks of trout are tossed with edamame, buttermilk and dill oil. It’s crowned with trout roe and dill sprigs. $22

This tangy scallop tartare is made with Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar, cold-pressed canola oil and dulse, a type of edible seaweed. $26

Harissa adds a subtle heat to this otherwise tried-and-true beef tartare mixture of Dijon mustard, capers, parsley and egg yolk — Harissa adds a subtle heat to this otherwise tried-and-true beef tartare with Dijon mustard, capers, parsley and egg yolk. $20

The French onion soup takes a minimum of 48 hours to make, with the onions slow-cooked for maximum flavour. Red wine, brandy, roasted chicken broth and a blend of Gruyère, Emmental and—for a Canadian twist—cheese curds complete this indulgent classic. $19

For this salad, cauliflower gets the rotisserie treatment before being tossed with herbed labneh, pine nuts, currants, capers, parsley and harissa. $22

Brie, asparagus, peas, brown butter crumble, potato sticks and fresh truffle shavings transform this fluffy French omelet from breakfast staple to dinner entrée. $32

Asparagus, pistou, Parmigiano-Reggiano, almonds and stracciatella come together to create a pesto-like sauce for this springy gnocchi Parisienne — Asparagus, pistou, Parmigiano Reggiano, almonds and stracciatella come together to create a pesto-like sauce for this springy gnocchi Parisienne. $32

This crispy-skinned branzino is simply finished with a leek vinaigrette and some lemon. $56

A whole rotisserie chicken, served with gravy and potato wedges — “Rotisserie chicken is so easy to get—but that doesn’t mean it’s always good,” says Horne. His team prepared birds dozens of ways before settling on the current method. Whole organic Giannone chickens are brined for eight hours and seasoned with an Espelette-style spice blend before twirling around in the rotisserie. The bird is served with gravy made from leftover chicken bones and a choice of creamy mashed potatoes or double-cooked russet potato wedges. $60

Steak frites — Another cornerstone of the menu is steak frites prepared with a variety of cuts. “We wanted to have different levels for everyone,” says Horne. This 25-ounce côte de bœuf sits at the upper end of a price range that starts at $40. All cuts come with green beans, frites and a choice of Béarnaise sauce or shallot jus. $99

This substantial Paris-brest is made to share. Choux pastry sandwiches thick swirls of praline cream for a taste similar to a fancy Ferrero Rocher — This substantial Paris–Brest is made to share. Choux pastry sandwiches thick swirls of praline cream for a taste similar to a fancy Ferrero Rocher. $20

The drinks

Cocktails channel the restaurant’s dreamy aesthetic. “When you think about the drinks that are popular in the south of France, they’re fresh and citrusy with lots of bubbles,” says senior director of operations, Steve Spooner.

Wines are primarily French, and those that aren’t (like Westcott Vineyards’ Chardonnay) are made in an old-world style to capture the connection to European winemaking. Easy-drinking beers from local breweries like Henderson and Lost Craft cap off the drink menu.

Made with spiced rum, cassis, Kahlua, white cacao, cold brew and bitters, the Bon Bon drinks like a nuanced take on an espresso martini — Made with spiced rum, cassis, Kahlúa, white cacao, cold brew and bitters, the Bon Bon drinks like a nuanced take on an espresso martini. (La Plume also has a classic espresso martini, which will soon be available on tap.) $17

Featuring St-Germain elderflower liqueur, sparkling wine, lemon and a lavender-and-thyme syrup, this lively Riviera Spritz is as light and summery as it gets — Featuring St-Germain elderflower liqueur, sparkling wine, lemon and a lavender-thyme syrup, the lively Riviera Spritz is as light and summery as it gets. $17

The space

Curated by Solid Design Creative, the palatial restaurant includes a main floor with 14-foot ceilings, a second storey with a sleek open kitchen, a covered terrace and a hidden speakeasy. French-influenced design elements are explored throughout, including a booth modelled after a vintage train car and the deep burgundy wall panelling of a glamorous Parisian apartment.