Introducing: Small Town Food Co., a cozy Parkdale pub with big-city polish
Name: Small Town Food Co.
Contact Info: 1263 Queen St. W., @smalltownfoodco
Neighbourhood: Parkdale
Owners: Wrongbar manager Stephen McKeon and former Drake Hotel bartender Cameron Hutton
Chef: Tallis Voakes, the former executive chef at Paintbox in Regent Park
The Food: Updates on British pub standards, like Scotch eggs wrapped in pork rillettes and a spin on fish and chips made with rare panko-crusted tuna and potato chips. Voakes isn’t afraid to cook with unconventional proteins: a traditional Bolognese is made with rabbit instead of beef, and deep-fried alligator bites sub for ordinary fried chicken. A Sunday roast dinner is in the works.
The Drinks: Fun cocktails made with spice-infused liquors, sodas and bitters. The tight wine list was designed by lauded sommelier Anton Potvin.
The Place: The owners’ goal was to create a polished, urban space with the warmth of a small-town tavern. The candlelit room is cozy but cool with a big curved bar, white subway tiles and pops of cherry-red. The open kitchen lets customers ogle their food as it’s prepared.
The Numbers:
• 30 seats
• 24 hours to prepare confit-style pork belly simmered in duck fat
• 7 days to infuse bourbon with cinnamon and clove for the restaurant’s signature Small Town Sour
• 1 wrought-iron lamppost standing in the middle of the room
253216 Small Town’s logo was inspired by a train ticket stub (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-01-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-01.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-01/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-01 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253217 The space is cozy but cool with subway-tiled walls and pops of cherry-red (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-02-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-02.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-02/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-02 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253231 The old-fashioned lamppost adds a nice contrast (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-16-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-16.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-16.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-16/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-16 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253218 (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-03-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-03.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-03.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-03/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-03 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253219 Scotch egg with pork rillettes and hot sauce ($5) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-04-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-04.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-04.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-04/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-04 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253220 Scotch egg with pork rillettes and hot sauce ($5) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-05-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-05.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-05/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-05 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253221 Panko-crusted albacore tuna with edamame purée, tartare sauce and potato chips ($12) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-06-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-06.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-06/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-06 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253222 Panko-crusted albacore tuna with edamame purée, tartare sauce and potato chips ($12) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-07-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-07.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-07.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-07/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-07 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253223 (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-08-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-08.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-08/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-08 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253225 Miso-glazed pork belly ($8) is braised in duck fat for 24 hours (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-10-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-10.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-10/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-10 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253226 Miso-glazed pork belly ($8) is braised in duck fat for 24 hours (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-11-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-11.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-11/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-11 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253227 Truffle-marinated beef tataki with pickled daikon, dry miso and cucumber ($7) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-12-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-12.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-12/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-12 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253228 Truffle-marinated beef tataki with pickled daikon, dry miso and cucumber ($7) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-13-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-13.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-13.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-13/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-13 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253232 Ox cheek with mashed potatoes, carrots and jus ($21) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-17-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-17.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-17.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-17/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-17 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253229 Lauded sommelier <strong>Anton Potvin</strong> designed the restaurant’s short wine list (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-14-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-14.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-14.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-14/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-14 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253224 Beer is available on draught and by the bottle (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-09-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-09.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-09/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-09 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253230 Cocktails are blended with house-made infusions and sodas (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-15-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-15.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-15.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-15/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-15 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253233 Small Town Sour: cinnamon and clove infused bourbon, lemon juice, sugar and egg whites ($10) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-18-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-18.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-18.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-18/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-18 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
253234 Demolition Derby: cedar-infused Mezcal, sweet Vermouth and grapefruit bitters ($11) (Image: Renée Suen) Introducing: Small Town Food Co. Introducing: Small Town Food Co. https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-19-96x96.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-19.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-19.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/small-town-food-co-toronto-restaurants/slide/small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-19/ small-town-food-company-toronto-restaurant-19 0 0
(Image: Renée Suen)
has anyone tasted deep fried alligator? in the name of being different or having a “new take” restaurants should avoid gimmicks that don’t stand up to the simple concept that food should taste good. Alligator is not a substitute for chicken. It is stickier and greasier.
Actually, alligator meat is leaner but yes, chewier. it’s less sustainable than chicken and possibly more full of toxins (as any top of food chain, apex predator is). It is gimmick’ie’ though.
Yet another small plates “with a twist” joint opening in Parkdale? Wow, stop the presses! (Eyeroll) I am not too enthusiastic about any restaurant that tries to serve me a Scotch egg with a soft, snotty yolk. I really don’t need a gimmicky take on pub fare: I’d appreciate it far more if someplace in that stretch of little trendo hipster bar eateries actually just made really consistently good, normal fish and chips.
Sadly, an awful meal. We pulled the chute and left after a few dishes.