Review: Soos brings Malay street food and clever bar snacks to Ossington
Soos ★
94 Ossington St., 416-901-7667
This new family-run spot mixes familiar Ossington cues—dangling Edison bulbs, sharing plates and citrusy cocktails—with refreshing details, like pops of tropical colour from chili-red chairs and patterned blue wallpaper. The result is a restaurant greater than its parts, one that delivers classic Malaysian dishes alongside clever bar snacks without seeming kitschy. To wit: meaty chicken wings coated in sweet chili sauce and peanuts, and Soos’ poutine—a serious new contender for the city’s best—which features crispy hand-cut fries covered in galangal-spiked lamb curry and fresh Quebec curds. Char kway teow is a rice noodle dish with grilled prawns and crunchy bean sprouts, plus terrific house-made sambal, a spicy chili paste with garlic and fish sauce. To finish, spears of pineapple grilled until sticky, served with Greg’s ice cream.
That isn’t Char Kway Teow in the picture, but rather it’s the chicken wings. Char Kway Teow looks a lot different: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Char_kway_teow
How can a new restaurant that serves poutine that is “a serious contender for the city’s best”, not to mention other delights, get only 1 star? Reviewers, don’t be so stingy!