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Food & Drink

Must-Try: the smoky monkfish foie gras from Hapa Izakaya

Must-Try: the smoky monkfish foie gras from Hapa Izakaya
(Images: Ron Piano)

Toronto chefs are infusing just about everything with wood smoke. At Little Italy’s Hapa Izakaya, chef Koichi Fujioka’s foie de lotte—i.e. monkfish foie gras—is smoked à la minute. He marinates monkfish livers in sake and steams them until they’re tender. Then, he tops thin slices with slivered scallions and dollops of jellied ponzu, a citrusy Japanese vinaigrette. A miniature glass dome contains the final flavour enhancer: a fragrant swirl of apple-wood smoke, which infuses each creamy bite with a subtle campfire kick. It’s a lighter, slightly brinier take on traditional foie—and a bargain at just $7.

Hapa Izakaya, 602 College St., 647-748-4272

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