Must-Try: the smoky monkfish foie gras from Hapa Izakaya

Toronto chefs are infusing just about everything with wood smoke. At Little Italy’s Hapa Izakaya, chef Koichi Fujioka’s foie de lotte—i.e. monkfish foie gras—is smoked à la minute. He marinates monkfish livers in sake and steams them until they’re tender. Then, he tops thin slices with slivered scallions and dollops of jellied ponzu, a citrusy Japanese vinaigrette. A miniature glass dome contains the final flavour enhancer: a fragrant swirl of apple-wood smoke, which infuses each creamy bite with a subtle campfire kick. It’s a lighter, slightly brinier take on traditional foie—and a bargain at just $7.

Hapa Izakaya, 602 College St., 647-748-4272