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Food & Drink

Snack on cones of crispy Belgian frites at Kensington’s new fry shop

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(Image: Caroline Aksich)
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

At Moo Frites, Kensington’s new Belgian fry shop, snackers can dip perfectly crisp, thick-cut frites into a remarkable number of sauces—18, to be exact. The dipping options include traditional Dutch dressings, like the curry-based joppie, as well as some pretty out-there flavours, like pumpkin spice, peanut sauce and tandoori. Owner Ambrose Lee was on a solo trek across Europe when he fell in love with Belgian frites. When he returned to Toronto, he left his marketing job to open up this eight-seat eatery. “You wouldn’t believe the amount of research I read about frying potatoes,” says Lee, whose five-step frites are fried, frozen (to break down the water molecules) and then fried again before hitting the paper cone. For an extra dollar, you can opt to have your fries fried in beef tallow—hence the restaurant’s name. And Lee isn’t done experimenting. He’s currently developing a line of specialty dishes, like the “Japo Frites”: a cone of fries topped with wasabi mayo, seaweed and seasame seeds. $4–8

178 Baldwin St., facebook.com

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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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