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Food & Drink

Inside a charming new cocktail bar with an Asian-inspired menu and vintage McDonald’s seating

The siblings behind Lonely Diner were born into the bar business

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Lonely Diner

Name: Lonely Diner Contact: 432 College St., @lonely_diner
Neighbourhood: Harbord Village
Owners: Christine Pham and Andrew Pham Chef: Andrew Pham Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Christine and Andrew Pham—the brother-and-sister team behind Big Trouble, Midnight Market and Midnight Arcade—have just added another notch to their cocktail-bar belt: the Lonely Diner, in the former home of the greasy spoon Mars Diner.

The Pham siblings didn’t just fall into the restaurant industry: they were born into it. “My dad owned Last Temptation and later opened the Green Room and Nirvana,” says Christine. “My brother and I used to play pool at Last Temptation as kids, and we always helped out where we could.”

The team behind Toronto's Lonely Diner
From left: Kaleb Hansen, Jon Kim, Christine Pham and Sasha Siegel

Related: Leslieville’s new cocktail and snack bar feels like a ’70s dinner party

When she turned 18, Christine started working at the Green Room. “That was a crazy place to work,” she says. She later managed Nirvana before deciding it was time for her and Andrew to strike out on their own. In 2018, they opened their first bar, Big Trouble. “I was 32 at the time and still really into the party scene,” says Christine. “We wanted to open a bar in Chinatown that catered to the Asian crowd, like us.”

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Over the years, Christine and Andrew’s bars have gradually matured—just as they have. Lonely Diner is a chill lounge that feels more like grandma’s basement than a rowdy nightclub and serves a menu of sophisticated cocktails and Asian-inspired snacks. “I’m a mom now,” says Christine. “My life isn’t exactly conducive to dancing on bar tops anymore.”

Related: This retro diner is serving char siu breakfast sandwiches and Kewpie mayo tuna melts

The exterior of Lonely Diner, a bar in Toronto
Photo by Ryan Nangreaves
The Food

Small, shareable plates with surprising Asian twists are built for snacking, playing with texture while leaning into richness. Think lotus root chips and dip, creamy stracciatella with chili crisp confit tomatoes and crostini, deep-fried cod sandos with secret sauce, and caviar.

Sesame baby corn
These tender baby corn cobs are flame-torched, tossed in butter and Sichuan pepper, then drizzled with a blend of Korean sesame and cream sauces. They’re finished with a light dusting of feta and a sprinkle of green onion. $10

 

Crisp little bowls of fried rice paper and nori cradle a chilled shrimp salad that’s finished with delicate dots of Osetra caviar. $12
Crisp little bowls of fried rice paper and nori cradle a chilled shrimp salad that’s finished with delicate dots of Osetra caviar. $12

 

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Creamy stracciatella with chili crisp–confit tomatoes and crostini
For this deconstructed take on stracciatella toast, a blend of feta and velvety stracciatella are spread thick on the plate, drizzled with punchy Lao Gan Ma chili oil, and topped with blistered cherry tomatoes and crunchy roasted soybeans. Slices of toasted sourdough are served on the side to mop it all up. $14

 

Two beef-and-pork sausage sliders
For these sliders, beef and pork sausages are enveloped in betel leaf and deep-fried. Nestled in soft Hawaiian sweet bread, they’re piled with pickled carrots and radishes and finished with a luscious reduced fish sauce jam. $12

 

A cod sandwich topped with caviar and served with potato chips
Filet-O-Fish who? For this show-stopping fish sando, fresh Atlantic cod is battered and fried to a golden crisp, then placed in a tender brioche bun and dolloped with a tangy yuzu tartar sauce. Osetra caviar adds a luxurious finish. $22
The Drinks

“We don’t want to follow trends—we want to make our mark,” says Christine of the drink menu. The result is a lineup of cocktails that spotlights underutilized Asian ingredients, like galangal, while steering clear of overplayed ones, like yuzu or matcha. The standout is the Forbidden Fruit, a velvety milk punch featuring durian (the custard-like fruit that’s banned from certain public places in Singapore due to its distinctive pungent odour). Here, the funky fruit is handled with finesse, blended into a soy milk–based punch along with honeydew, lemon and aromatic baijiu.

Into the Mystic combines dill-infusedJapanese whisky, green Chartreuse, cold-brewed genmaicha tea, celery bitters, house riesling cordial and black cardamom
Into the Mystic combines dill-infused Japanese whisky, green Chartreuse, cold-brewed genmaicha tea, celery bitters, house riesling cordial and black cardamom. The delicate, herbal drink is poured over a giant ice cube and served with a dill sprig. $19

 

The Umami Martini, served in a coupe and garnished with a sheet of seaweed
The Umami Martini is less Bond, more brunch. Made with a house brine of peak-season tomatoes, green onions, black garlic, lemongrass and Thai fermented soybean paste (all cooked sous-vide, juiced, seasoned and clarified), it’s blended with two gins, stirred and strained. A crispy seaweed snack plays the role of garnish. $17

 

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A playful riff on the classic Zombie, Haw Yeah layers rum, amaro, falernum, lemon, mulberry grenadine and lime with a nostalgic twist: hawthorn flakes, the tart, chewy Chinese candy made from hawthorn berries
A playful riff on the classic Zombie, Haw Yeah layers rum, amaro, falernum, lemon, mulberry grenadine and lime with a nostalgic twist: hawthorn flakes—the tart, chewy Chinese candy made from hawthorn berries. $18

 

The Forbidden Fruit punch mixes Planteray white rum, baijiu, soy and coconut milk with durian, honeydew and lemon
It’s not often you’ll spot durian in a cocktail, but the Forbidden Fruit puts the pungent fruit front and centre. This bold yet balanced punch mixes Planteray white rum, baijiu, soy and coconut milk with durian, honeydew and lemon. Clarified and pre-batched for ease, the drink is poured over ice in a lowball and finished with a rim of dehydrated raspberry powder. $17

 

A tart, funky and adventurous sipper, the Bohemian Raspberry balances smoky mezcal, fermented wine, fermented raspberries and lemon oleo, all crowned with banana cheesefoam
A tart, funky and adventurous sipper, the Bohemian Raspberry balances smoky mezcal, fermented wine, fermented raspberries and lemon oleo, all crowned with a decadent surprise: banana cheesefoam. A cocktail that’s as delicate as it is tasty, it toys with contrast, texture and funky flavours. $19
The Space

Taking cues from their mother, who opened the vintage clothing shop Tribal Rhythm back in 1993, the Phams sprinkled time-warpy dust all over their new diner. Seventies-inspired with wood panelling and vintage McDonald’s booth seating, Lonely Diner is a groovy, unpretentious little hideaway loaded with charm.

Looking from the front of Lonely Diner to the bar
The back of the dining room at Lonely Diner, with booths salvaged from old McDonald's locations
Vintage seating at Lonely Diner, a ’70s-inspired cocktail bar in Toronto
Vintage seating, artwork and lots of wood panelling in the dining room of Lonely Diner
A horseshoe-shaped booth at the front of Lonely Diner

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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