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Food & Drink

This retro diner is serving char siu breakfast sandwiches and Kewpie mayo tuna melts

Susie’s Rise and Dine is a greasy spoon reboot for nostalgic millennials

By Jessica Huras| Photography by Jelena Subotic
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Susie's Rise and Dine, a diner

Name: Susie’s Rise and Dine Contact: 539 College St., susiestoronto.com, @susiestoronto
Neighbourhood Little Italy
Owners: Adam Lore, Tyler Tanabe and Matthew Chow Chef: Kelvin Ng Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Childhood friends Adam Lore, Tyler Tanabe and Matthew Chow grew up splitting pancakes in neighbourhood diners and gathering around family-style feasts at home. At Susie’s Rise and Dine—a polished, modern take on the greasy spoon—they’re serving up both, with a side of nostalgia.

Named after Lore’s grandmother, the restaurant is meant to feel like a community hub that echoes the sense of welcome he and his friends always found at her dining table. “We wanted to offer something that was very social and something where we could highlight our upbringings,” says Lore.

The team at Susie's Rise and Dine, a diner in Toronot
From left: general manager Liben Bihon, co-owner Adam Lore, chef and partner Kelvin Ng, co-owner Tyler Tanabe, and co-owner Matthew Chow

Related: This Japanese Italian diner is Leslieville’s latest brunch obsession

“Growing up Asian in Canada, we had the best of both worlds,” says Lore. “We had traditional Chinese or Japanese foods with our families at home, but we also ate at a lot of diners.”

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The team tapped chef and partner Kelvin Ng (former executive chef for Hong Kong’s Black Sheep Restaurant Group) to bring the concept to life. The result is a fresh take on the classic diner: brunchy comfort food dishes with east-meets-west flair, low-octane cocktails that go down easy, and a space that walks the line between old-school diner and contemporary hangout.

Related: This adorable diner has moved into the old Grapefruit Moon space

A person pours coffee into a mug placed behind a plate with a breakfast sandwich on it
Photo by Jelena Subotic
The Food

The menu mashes up diner favourites with Asian flavours drawn from the team’s family recipes. “We wanted the dishes to be approachable for someone who has never tried these flavour profiles before but also adventurous enough for people who are familiar with them,” says Lore.

Plates here are built for sharing, just like the communal meals of the team’s childhoods. “In a lot of Chinese families, you’ll see big dishes in the middle of the table, and everyone helps themselves. We wanted to bring that spirit here, but in a diner setting,” says Lore.

Right now, the kitchen is focused on brunch, but there’s a chance that Susie’s could become a true all-day diner down the road.

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A twist on a caesar salad
This caesar salad trades anchovy and garlic for miso and citrus: romaine and gem lettuces are tossed in a miso-sesame dressing, then showered with furikake and parmesan. $15

 

A plate of onion rings next to a mug of coffee
Compared with the rest of the remixed hits, these onion rings are for the purists: beer-battered, fried until golden, then seasoned with a smoky house spice blend. They’re served with a squeeze of ketchup on the side—because sometimes, the obvious dip is the right one. $8

 

Two halves of a breakfast sandwich stacked on top of each other
For this breakfast sandwich, soft scrambled eggs and American cheese join a crispy hash brown patty and Vietnamese sausage glazed in a char siu–style barbecue sauce. Everything gets tucked into a fluffy scallion milk bun that’s soft enough to squish but sturdy enough to prevent a mess. $17

 

A person holds two halves. of a breakfast sandwich
Here’s a closer look

 

A tuna melt with a pickle spear
This tuna melt is stacked with Japanese-inspired tartar sauce made with Kewpie mayo and yuzu kosho, along with malt vinegar–pickled diced celery, American cheese and kettle chips for a salty crackle. It’s all pressed between griddled slices of Blackbird’s rye bread. $17

 

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Frito pie in a chip bag
This kicked-up Frito pie layers dry-aged beef chili with fermented Pixian chili bean paste and tingling sansho pepper for a spicy twist on the southwestern snack. It’s served over corn chips right in the bag. $16

 

A plate of chicken wings
This riff on buffalo wings swaps in a General Tso–style glaze. Double-fried for extra crunch, the wings are tossed in butter along with the sticky chili-charged sauce. $15

 

A cheeseburger served with a pickle spear
This burger skips frills like lettuce and tomato and doubles down on what matters most: a thick patty of dry-aged beef, American cheese melted to the edge and charred white onion for a hit of sweetness. It’s all sandwiched in a sesame milk bun. A zingy burger sauce made with Kewpie mayo, mustard, relish and ketchup is served on the side. $19 Photo by Jelena Subotic

 

A person pours syrup over lemon-ricotta pancakes
These pancakes rise high thanks to a whipped batter while clarified butter gives the edges a satisfying crispiness. A drizzle of burnt honey maple syrup and a dusting of lemon zest finish the stack. The side of berry compote is optional but strongly encouraged. $15

 

A bowl of ice cream and a mug of coffee
Lush banana pudding and crumbled Speculoos cookies are layered throughout this indulgent dessert, which is crowned with a final heap of cookie crumbs. $12
The Drinks

Cocktails here are built for the brunch crowd, so they lean easy and low-proof. Names like I’m Driving and What You’re Having mimic the polite replies you might toss out when someone offers you a drink at a house party.

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A glass of green juice garnished with kale
The Something Healthy(ish) combines reposado tequila, Triple Sec, pineapple and yuzu with blended fresh kale, cucumber and celery juice. It’s topped with a kale-leaf crown. $14

 

A Coke float garnished with a raspberry
The What You’re Having—a shaken-up blend of espresso, amaro and raspberry syrup—is their take on an espresso martini. $14
The Space

It’s an old-school diner for the modern era—sleek, playful and just retro enough. The walls are clad in glossy tiles striped with powder blue, and geometric floors give a wink to vintage linoleum without looking dated.

Even the soundtrack pulls from the past: just as ’60s-era diners spun tunes from the ’40s and ’50s, Susie’s cues up bangers from the late-’90s and early-aughts to tap in to a more millennial brand of nostalgia.

“If you heard it played at a high school dance, it’s on our playlist,” says Lore.

The dining room and bar at Susie's Rise and Dine, a retro diner in Toronto
The bar at Susie's Rise and Dine
Curved banquette seating at Susie's Rise and Diner, a retro diner
Booth seating at Susie's Rise and Dine, a retro diner in Toronto
A set table at a diner
The streetside patio at Susie's Rise and Dine

Jessica Huras is a freelance writer and editor with over a decade of experience creating food, travel and lifestyle content. She’s a content editor for the LCBO’s Food & Drink magazine, and her work has appeared in the Globe and Mail, the Toronto Star, Chatelaine, Toronto Life and Elle Canada, among other publications.

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