What’s on the menu at J&J Bar-B-Que, a new Texas-style smokehouse

Name: J&J Bar-B-Que Neighbourhood: Kensington Market Contact: 193 Baldwin St., 416-531-4227, @jandjbarbque
Previously: Thomas Lavers Cannery and Delicatessen Owners and chefs: Jonathon Lucas (The Harbord Room, Ursa) and Jay Moore (Momofuku Shoto, Ursa, Petite Thuet, Sushi Kaji)

The food

Central Texas–style barbecue (turkey, brisket, beef ribs, pulled pork, house-made sausages) that’s smoked over white oak in wood-burning smokers. “It’s a purer style of barbecue that only needs a little salt and pepper,” Moore says. “There’s nothing to hide behind.” J&J also serves a couple of extreme sandwiches, like a smoked beef–stuffed pretzel bun, and chopped brisket between jalapeño-bacon danishes. The shop opens at 11 a.m., and closes when everything’s sold out (usually around 2:30 p.m.).

The drinks

Fountain pop, including Big Red, a cream soda–type drink imported from the States, and sweet tea. There’s also Topo Chico sparkling water, which Lucas says is synonymous with barbecue in Texas.

The space

The long room features take-away and butcher counters, as well as a communal high-top table—there’s no sit-down dining here.

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