Famous chef Alain Ducasse on Toronto: “C’est wow!”

Alain Ducasse was in town this week promoting a pastry-focused partnership between his French culinary school and George Brown. Of course, local news outlets pumped the world-famous chef for comments on Toronto’s food scene. Ducasse, in turn, let drop some pleasing, if somewhat vague, nuggets of praise (e.g. his overall impression of the city, as quoted in the Star: “C’est wow!”). When asked if he’d consider opening a restaurant here, the cooking legend and lifetime recipient of 21 Michelin stars (Michelin has never published a Toronto restaurant guide, just FYI) responded that he wouldn’t dare. “No,” he told the Star. “There’s too much competition here. I’m too late!” Having sampled dishes from Buca, Carmen, Scaramouche, Colette, Richmond Station and The Drake, Ducasse also observed that Toronto chefs “cook with their hearts,” and predicted that the city would be flush with Michelin stars eventually, maybe in five to 10 years.
It should be noted that the reason Toronto has no Michelin Stars is that Michelin doesn’t assess any restaurants in Canada, as of yet. If they did, there are a number of restaurants that would have stars.
Yes. You bet me to the punch. I was thinking that when I read the article. I’m sure there are many restaurants that would qualify for Michelin Stars in Toronto. Perhaps even a few in Montreal.
Toronto’s total Michel star count is zero, just FYI, because Michelin does not rate restaurants in the city. Michelin does not rate restaurants anywhere in Canada. Your note about Toronto’s lack of Michelin stars is therefore not only misleading, but also disparaging.
Were there a Michelin guide for it, Toronto might get a few 1-stars, and maybe even a couple 2-stars (Hashimoto? Splendido? Scaramouche?), but it wouldn’t exactly be awash in them.
But let me know when a chef who *doesn’t* have a financial interest in Toronto goes out of his way to say something positive.
Wow. Toronto bashing in the pages of Toronto Life???? Please…..spare me. You must be from Montreal.
I’ve lived in a few cities on both sides of the border and have spent the last few years in Toronto. So unlike the average grew-up-in-Mississauga-went-to-UofT Torontonian, I actually have a fair bit of perspective.
No. You’ve got me all wrong. Born and raised in T.O. Not the burbs. Went to York U, graduated with honours. Have lived in other cities as well and moved back. I think I have perspective as well and I’m personally tired of the snide remarks about my city from others who are jealous of it and the great restaurants we have here. After all, that’s what this article is about.
Jealous of what? There are a few restaurants that I really do love in Toronto and would stack against any in NYC/SF/Montreal (probably the three best eating cities in North America), but the problem is that most other places here are completely derivative and unoriginal. Restauranteurs in Toronto seem more interested in brand-building than creating a quality experience — what else explains the opening of four Playa Cabanas, two Rock Lobsters and Anthony Rose’s mini-empire in the span of 2 or 3 years, for example? (None of which are particularly good.)
Toronto rarely leads in any trend; it’s usually a few years behind. (Like tacos here in 2010-2012; ramen in 2012-2013; burgers and BBQ now, although the latter is uniformly garbage here.)
The problem is Toronto’s buttoned-up Midwestern sensibilities. Look no further than the Momofuku here. In New York Ssam Bar is a cramped, uncomfortable, energetic, loud, fuck-you-we-don’t-make-substitutions restaurant in an old dry cleaners. Here it’s a 3-story montrosity which has great food but is soulessly unfun.
Ok. I actually agree with most of what you say in this last post. We’ll call it a day. Pleasure sparring with you. :)