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Where olive oil expert Fil Bucchino eats Italian food in Vaughan

His favourite spots for porchetta, fried seafood and amaretti

By Tiffany Leigh| Photography by Tiffany Leigh
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Where olive oil expert Fil Bucchino eats Italian food in Vaughan

Fil Bucchino, olive oil expert and founder of Abandoned Grove, has patience in spades. “We belong to a society that wants something yesterday,” he says. But, for the Florence-born Bucchino, it’s important to slow down and take the time to enjoy life—and food. “My first taste of top-quality olive oil nearly two decades ago quite literally changed my life,” he says. “I’ve since dedicated myself to travelling back to Italy and saving abandoned olive groves.” It was olives that taught Bucchino the importance of slowing down. “Even in places like Tuscany, I see farmers abandoning their groves because they’d rather switch to industrial farming and crank out an inferior mass-produced product—but this leads to unsustainable practices as well as the loss of flavours and traditions,” he says. So Bucchino founded Abandon Grove to revitalize the land and provide jobs harvesting quality olive oil the old-fashioned way.

Related: Where Cibo executive chef Laura Petracca eats Italian food in Richmond Hill

This slow-living philosophy carries through to Bucchino’s free time. When he was a teenager, Bucchino and his family moved from Italy to Vaughan, where they made themselves regulars at a bunch of the region’s mom-and-pop stores and restaurants. Bucchino says that, compared with the frenzy of downtown Toronto, people in Vaughan move at their own pace: he calls it an I’ll get to you when I get to you sort of vibe. If there was ever a time to cultivate patience, it’s here—but Bucchino assures us that everything will be worth the wait.

He took us for a tour of his favourite Italian bakeries, markets and restaurants—and he even brought along a bottle of his own olive oil.

Vicentina Fine Foods

109 Edilcan Dr., 905-738-9998, vicentina.ca

Men line up at the counter at an Italian market in Vaughan

“This family-owned and -operated grocery store has been around for at least 60 years, and they’ve been at this location for at least 30. It started out just selling Italian staples but eventually added a sandwich bar and hot table. Once lunchtime hits, there’s a line out the door. I’ve been coming here with my family since the late ’80s—it’s an institution. I’d actually argue that the name Vicentina is synonymous with porchetta.”

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A display case filled with sandwiches at an Italian market

Go-to dish #1: porchetta sandwich “A kaiser bun stuffed with soft, sweet, rich porchetta and amplified with herbs, seasonings and chili flakes—simple but so good. I always order a few extra-spicy hot peppers to go with this. There’s so many aromas coming off of this, and it feels like it weighs four pounds. I like to pair this sandwich with a Brio soda, which is on the welcomingly bitter side and acts as a palate-cleanser of sorts. The two go hand in hand; it’s a great combo.”

Fil Bucchino puts olive oil on a porchetta sandwich
A person holds a porchetta sandwich

Go-to dish #2: a hefty slab of porchetta “This right here could easily feed six to eight people. I love to grab porchetta for my family because it’s such an effortless thing to serve. It’s also fun during gatherings to just lay this out with bread, cheese, hot peppers—and olive oil, of course—and let people pick at it for communal dining. Another option is to make sandwiches with it, but my preference is to go the no-frills route. My family and I live in the Riverdale neighbourhood now, and we’ve become known for bringing this to block parties. It’s such a massive hit. Right now, we are eating it warm, but I love when it’s fridge-cold—it’s firmer and easier to break up.”

A slab of porchetta on tinfoil
San Antonio Seafood

8383 Weston Rd., 905-856-2000, sanantonioseafood.ca

Fil Bucchino stands outside of San Antonio, an Italian seafood market and restaurant in Vaughan

“Toronto has Eataly, but in my humble opinion, this is the OG Italian emporium. It’s more authentic and true to what I experience dining out in places like this back in Florence. San Antonio Seafood used to be big in the restaurant supplier game but left to focus on their grocery store and on-site restaurant. It was my parents who first brought me here. They were both physicians, and they promoted the Mediterranean diet before it was trendy. My favourite time to visit is on a Sunday because it’s such a fun and energetic family vibe.”

Fish, octopus and crustaceans on ice at San Antonio Seafood in Vaughan

Go-to dish #1: freshly shucked oysters “I trust the staff, so I always have them recommend whatever’s freshest. This time around we have French Kiss oysters from New Brunswick. I enjoy them pure, without any horseradish. On my next round, I might add a few drops of some of my own olive oil. I know it may sound odd to those who have never done this before, but the oil adds complexity and structure, acting as a welcoming counterbalance to the salinity of the oysters.”

Freshly shucked oysters on ice
A person holds a shucked oyster into which olive oil has been poured

Go-to dish #2: Captain Fish Fry This is so fresh, and it’s perfectly battered—you can still see the seafood, which is a good sign. This dish reminds me a lot of the fish fries I’ve enjoyed in Italy or southern Spain. My favourites are the cod filets, smelts, sardines and baby octopus because it all tastes of the ocean but without being fishy, if that makes sense. This is a good platter for sharing, but even if you get this as your main meal, it doesn’t feel like you’ve been hit by a truck when you’re done. It’s not heavy and doesn’t feel like a brick in your stomach.”

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Assorted fried seafood at San Antonio Seafood in Vaughan
Fil Bucchino squirts lemon over a platter of fried seafood

Go-to dish #3: polenta fries “The fries have a crisp exterior but are soft and fluffy on the inside, with a pleasant corn flavour. My only advice is to wait a bit before eating these because they come out screaming hot.”

A person dips a polenta fry into tomato sauce
Sweet Boutique

471 Jevlan Dr., 905-851-8388, sweetboutique.ca

“This beloved Woodbridge staple has been around for almost 25 years. It’s my go-to spot for amaretti cookies, and that’s what this bakery is famous for.”

Display cases at Italian bakery Sweet Boutique are stocked with bowls of amaretti cookies
Fil Bucchino poses with a tray of Italian amaretti cookies at Sweet Boutique in Vaughan

Go-to dish #1: a sampler amaretti platter “These are all variations of amaretti, or almond cookies. I’ll ask for a sampler and let the staff choose but will usually ask them to include a few of my favourites. The amaretto with amarena are visually striking. The soft, light chewiness of the almond cookie combined with the bitter tang of the candied amarena cherry is a great combination. I also love the amaretto classic for their nostalgic flavour and texture. Lastly, the amaretto with cherry. The glossy cherry evokes memories of my childhood, my grandparents and family gatherings. Their flavour is so balanced, and they’re never overly sugary—the California almonds they use impart so much natural sweetness.”

A tray of Italian amaretti cookies
A person holds an Italian amaretti cookie with a candied maraschino cherry

Go-to dish #2: espresso “I’m a bit methodical here. I always have espresso after the cookies, never with them. I like to enjoy my dessert fully, then my espresso fully. And it always needs to be strong, quality espresso, never coffee.”

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Tiffany Leigh is an award-winning freelance journalist with degrees in business communications and education. She has a culinary background, is a recipient of the Clay Triplette James Beard Foundation scholarship award and has worked in restaurants such as Langdon Hall. In addition to Toronto Life, her pieces have been read in publications such as Forbes, Vogue, Eater, Dwell, Elle, Business Insider, Playboy, Food & Wine and Bon Appétit.

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