The single clam casino on the Canadian seafood platter at <strong>Frank’s Kitchen</strong> is a cheeky addition to an otherwise typical seafood plate. Bacon, red pepper, bread crumbs, parsley and Tabasco give the tender cherrystones a serious flavour boost. Sea asparagus and oyster leaf add freshness. $32. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/continental/franks-kitchen/"><em>588 College St., 416-516-5861.</em></a>
Chef Chris Sanderson of <strong>Big Crow</strong> sautées cherrystone clams, then threads the meat onto a skewer with double-smoked bacon. A turn on the maple wood–fired grill and a dip in honey butter hot sauce yields a succulent, smoky bite. $16. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/american/big-crow/"><em>176 Dupont St., 647-748-3287.</em></a>
The prettily deconstructed Clamorama at <strong>Luma</strong> is a sautéed jumble of diced razor clam meat, garlic, crispy bacon, jalapeños and faintly bitter turnip greens. Fragrant blood orange vinaigrette provides a balancing flourish. $16. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/continental/luma/"><em>350 King St. W., 647-288-4715.</em></a>
Razor clams get the Neapolitan treatment for <strong>Weslodge’</strong>s casino special, which brings clam meat baked with basil, mint, buffalo mozzarella and spicy tomato sauce. A drizzle of chorizo oil adds spicy bite; lemon zest cuts through the richness. $14. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/bar_and_pub/weslodge/"><em>480 King St. W., 416-274-8766.</em></a>
<strong>Bent</strong> chef Susur Lee deep-fries a mixture of clam meat, corn niblets, okra, bacon and dill to make an airy fritter. A crisp shard of honey-glazed prosciutto adds salty crunch, and chili hollandaise provides rich, sweet heat. $14. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/international/bent/"><em>777 Dundas St. W., <br />
647-352-0092.</em></a>
For her spicy Malaysian-Chinese clams, chef Tricia Soo of <strong>Soos</strong> wok-fries manillas with pork belly, kaffir lime leaves and dark soy sauce, while cherrystones are goosed with curry leaves, turmeric, ginger and pork belly, and topped with crumbled prawn crackers. $12. <a href="http://www.torontolife.com/guides/restaurants/malaysian/soos/"><em>94 Ossington Ave., 416-901-7667.</em></a>
I don’t want them re-invented or re-vamped… I want them like they were in the 60s and 70s – A broiled clam with some chopped green pepper/onion and crispy bacon. That’s it. No breading (that’s a ‘stuffed clam’ -different thing altogether). Clams Casino, A great bourbon Manhattan, and a Med. Rare Prime NY Strip… that’s a great meal.