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Food & Drink

Three Mumbai expats reunited in Toronto to open this splashy new Indian restaurant

Aangan was years in the making

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Nicole and Bagol
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Aangan

Name: Aangan Contact: 556 College St., aangantoronto.ca, @aangan.toronto
Neighbourhood: Little Italy
Owners: Tatoba Rane, Vedangi Rane and Abhishek Sharma Chef: Mukesh Padaya Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Tatoba Rane, Vedangi Rane and Abhishek Sharma first crossed paths at the Four Seasons Hotel in Mumbai. While Vedangi worked back of house, Tatoba and Abhishek were in the front, climbing the ranks to management positions.

“I worked in-room dining while Tatoba managed the rooftop bar,” says Abhishek. “He was ending his shifts as I was starting mine. We knew of each other and respected one another, but we never actually worked together.”

Abhishek stayed in Mumbai for a time, but Tatoba and Vedangi (who later married) moved around the world, working for luxury hotel brands including W and St. Regis. “Vedangi and I wanted to grow our family, but at the time we were living and working in the Maldives,” says Tatoba. “The island, though beautiful and exotic, isn’t the best place to raise children, so we decided to move to Canada.”

The team at Aangan, an Indian restaurant in Toronto

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In 2020, the couple landed in Toronto, and after navigating the bureaucratic maze of securing a work permit and weathering the pandemic, Tatoba joined Adrak as restaurant manager in 2022.

Meanwhile, Abhishek had moved to Vancouver. “I got a work permit and a job at a pizza shop. Coming from fine dining, it was new and foreign to me, but I loved it.” In 2022, he received permanent residency and headed straight for Toronto, where he applied to work at Adrak.

A chef holds a pan that's in flames over a stove

“Out of the blue, I got a DM on Facebook Messenger,” says Abhishek. “It was Tatoba asking if I was the one who applied. He hired me on the spot.”

The pair worked together at Adrak for a year before moving on to help open Black and Blue in 2023—Tatoba as AGM and Abhishek as restaurant manager. They spent the next two and a half years there, quietly sketching out plans for an upscale restaurant that would showcase the cuisine of their home country through a modern, elegant lens.

Related: Bindi’s Burgers, an Indian-inspired smash burger operation inside a Little Italy bar

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“When we both resigned, our boss, Emad Yacoub, said he wouldn’t let us go unless we were going somewhere that deserved us,” says Abhishek. “When we told him we were branching out on our own, he graciously accepted our departure.”

Now, Aangan—Hindi for “courtyard,” which is often considered the heart of the home—casts a polished but unfussy spotlight on India’s coastal cuisine. It’s the stuff of quiet ambition and deeply personal cooking.

A chef finishes a dessert in the kitchen of Aangan
The Food

Despite the glut of Indian restaurants in the city, the Mumbai-bred team thought Toronto’s understanding of India’s cuisine was narrow, often confined to curries, rice and naan. The menu at Aangan branches out to include dishes from all over the country, reimagining traditional coastal fare with modern precision and inventiveness. “Our menu is an attempt to elevate and showcase our culture,” says Abhishek.

A chef places naan inside a tandoor

The menu spotlights generational recipes, like their take on kombadi vade, a celebratory chicken curry from the Konkan region, made using Tatoba’s mother’s recipe. Or tandoor-fired meats layered with smoke and prepared with restraint. Even familiar staples are reworked with finesse: the paneer terrine features delicate ribbons of the cheese, rolled and folded with fresh herbs like a savoury roulade. It lands somewhere between saag paneer and a pesto-laced cannelloni.

An Irani bun maska with chai-spiced butter
The Iranian bun maska points to the strong Parsi influence in India. During the British colonial period, many Iranian Zoroastrians arrived via trade routes and went on to open cafés, where this bouncy, tender, slightly sweet milk bread became a staple. “Every kid in India remembers having Irani bread and butter for breakfast and dipping it in chai,” says Abhishek. At Aangan, no tea is required: house-made butter seasoned with warm chai spices accompanies the bun. $12

 

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A modern take on shakarkandi chaat at Aangan
Aangan’s take on shakarkandi chaat, a popular street-food snack, swaps out regular spuds for sweet potatoes. The cubes are coated in cornstarch for extra crunch and deep-fried, then piled over a swipe of sweet yogurt and layered with mint and tamarind chutneys, more yogurt and crispy potato sticks. Pomegranate seeds are scattered overtop, and slices of starfruit on the side help strike the sweet, sour and spicy balance essential to a proper chaat. $18

 

Paneer terrine
For the paneer terrine, thin slices of paneer are layered with walnut and herb pesto, rolled into a tight spiral and cut into rounds, then topped with crisp katafeh and paired with a rich pepper aïoli. $34

 

Raw banana kofta
The raw banana kofta is a vegetarian meatball of sorts. For it, plantains, potatoes and spices are mashed together and deep-fried until golden and crisp. They’re served over a silky pumpkin squash purée blitzed with coconut milk and topped with a lacy tuile of activated charcoal. $32

 

Deboned chicken thighs marinated in yogurt and tandoori spices and served over a silky sauce of tomato, cashews, fenugreek, curry leaves and tandoor-roasted peppers
Deboned chicken thighs are marinated in yogurt and tandoori spices overnight before hitting the tandoor. They’re served over a silky sauce of tomato, cashews, fenugreek, curry leaves and tandoor-roasted peppers, adding a deep smokiness to the coal-fired dish while tempering its sweetness. $34

 

Tandoori lamb chops
The tandoori lamb chops spend 24 hours marinating in yogurt and spices before hitting the charcoal tandoor. They arrive plated with bright pineapple salsa and beetroot yogurt chutney. $69

 

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A server pours sauce over a cod dish at Aangan
The Mangalorean cod uses only the loin of fresh Pacific fish, seasoned with chili powder and turmeric and seared to a firm yet buttery finish. It’s served over broccoli khichari (think risotto) and crowned with a whimsical fishbone-shaped tuile. A bright and luscious sauce of coconut milk, tomato and tamarind served on the side ties it all together. $48

 

A take on gewar, a traditional Rajasthani dessert
Ghewar is a traditional festive dessert from Rajasthan. It’s typically prepared as a crisp honeycomb-like disc made with ghee and flour, soaked in sugar syrup, and finished with nuts and dried fruit. Here, it’s reimagined to preserve its delicate crispiness by layering the ghewar base with lightly sweetened condensed milk and fresh strawberries rather than soaking it in syrup. It’s finished with saffron foam and a saffron tuile. $21

 

Aangan's interpretation of barfi, a traditional Indian dessert
Aangan interprets barfi through the lens of Indian confections, or mithai. The base is built from layers of pistachio barfi for a dense, fudge-like richness, followed by a flattened layer of besan laddu, a chickpea flour sweet traditionally shaped into spheres. A layer of crunchy hazelnut adds texture, and chocolate mousse brings a welcome lightness. The dessert is finished with a glossy chocolate glaze and plated with a bright citrus gel to cut through the richness. It’s served with house-made malai ice cream and some chocolate soil. $18
The Drinks

Aangan’s zero-proof cocktails and their boozier counterparts incorporate Indian ingredients and flavours. The fruit-forward Kashmiri Royale, for example, takes its cues from the mountainous Kashmir region, known for its apples and plums. There’s even a drink made with mangosteen sourced directly from Tatoba’s own courtyard in India, weaving a personal thread through a program that feels as transportive as it is technical.

An alcohol-free take on a negroni
This alcohol-free take on the classic negroni preserves the drink’s signature three-part balance of bitterness, sweetness and depth. Instead of gin, a rosemary-infused cold brew gives the Smoked Kokum Negroni its botanical backbone, paired with a syrup made using kokum, a kind of sour plum, for some natural acidity and a deep purple hue. For the bitter orange notes typically delivered by Campari, the team blends in a house-brewed orange zest cold brew. It’s finished with applewood smoke. $12

 

The Grapefruit and Tonic cocktail at Aangan
Don’t be fooled by the name: this G&T stands for grapefruit and thyme. A house-made grapefruit-thyme cordial is poured over ice, topped with tonic and served in a wine goblet with fresh grapefruit. The drink delivers the same bittersweet and refreshing snap of a classic G&T, but without the booze (or the hangover). $12
The Space

With its luxurious fabrics, ornate metalwork, jungle-themed wallpaper and stained-glass peacock behind the bar, the dining room feels like picnicking in a palatial garden. And every plush banquette is angled to create the intimacy of a private corner table—so each guest is made to feel like royalty.

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The bar at Aangan, with a stained-glass peacock behind it
A closeup of the stained glass peacock behind the bar at Aangan
Jungle-inspired wallpaper lines the walls in the dining room at Aangan
A closeup of the jungle-themed wallpaper and bird-shaped light fixtures at Aangan
A velvet booth in Aangan's dining room
A closeup of the light fixtures on the ceiling of Aangan's dining room
The private dining room at Aagan, with an elaborate painted ceiling
A table for two in Aangan's dining room

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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