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Food & Drink

This is Queen West’s newest spot for cocktails and nachos

A team of industry veterans is behind the Dirty Laundry

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Jelena Subotic
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A spread of dishes and drinks available at Dirty Laundry

Name: The Dirty Laundry Contact: 1186 Queen St. W., thedirtttylaundry.com
Neighbourhood: Little Portugal
Previously: Cold Tea, the Brooklynn Owners: Robin Goodfellow (Czehoski, Bar Raval, PrettyUgly, Vela, Harry’s) and Aldo Pescatore (La Carnita, Sweet Jesus) Chef: Renelle Joubert Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Related: This new bar wants to inject some life back into Queen West

Toronto hospitality veterans Robin Goodfellow and Aldo Pescatore were working together on making a podcast called “Forward Drinking” when Covid hit. “We had all the funding and everything was good to go,” says Goodfellow. The duo ultimately pulled the plug, feeling it would be tone-deaf to launch a show about cocktail culture during a global pandemic.

The team at Dirty Laundry, a bar in Toronto
Salvatore, Goodfellow, GM Brittany Brennan and Joubert

But when the pandemic was in the rearview mirror, the two were still set on collaborating. “We decided we wanted to open a place that was less about our needs and more about everyone else’s.” That meant letting go of some of their “cocktail nerdery” and focusing instead on creating a space that would actually draw people out again—something affordable with casual food and well-made (but not overly precious) drinks, designed to serve the community.

“For us, other bars aren’t our competition,” they say. “It’s people’s homes.”

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Three cocktails on a table next to a menu at the Dirty Laundry

Related: This is when the new Pizzeria Badiali location is opening

Enter the Dirty Laundry, now open from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m., seven days a week, on Queen West between the Gladstone and Drake hotels. A little bit Sneaky Dee’s, a little bit PrettyUgly, the day-to-night spot is equal parts cocktail bar, Tex-Mex tavern and laid-back hangout to watch the World Cup or a Jays game.

The exterior of Dirty Laundry
The food

From former Sounds Good (RIP) and ex-Bar Raval chef Renelle Joubert, the menu is all about elevating affordable ingredients into craveable comfort food. The entirely gluten-free Tex-Mex lineup reimagines familiar favourites—think nachos with aged Albacore tuna, a tempura-battered fried catfish sandwich, and enchiladas stuffed with roasted chicken and house queso.  

A basket of cheese-covered nachos
The Nachos Too are what Joubert calls her “nachos for the girls,” a piled-high plate of house-fried tortillas topped with ruby-red tuna tartare, house-made spicy mayo, pickled ginger and jalapeño, shredded lettuce, shallots, chives and a truckload of crumbled cotija cheese. $19

 

A basket of nachos and a margarita
Heaps of those same chips get the full treatment for the TDL Classic nachos. They’re smothered in piquant house queso, layered with melted cheddar and brightened up with cilantro, diced onion, tomatoes and peppers. $18

 

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A basket of chicken wings with a container of dip
Joubert’s chicken wings are marinated in gluten-free soy sauce, tossed in cornstarch and deep-fried until perfectly crunchy before being coated in that Dirty Laundry spice blend. They’re served with a side of house-made ranch. $14

 

A hamburger and fries
This is Joubert’s sandwich take on a fish taco. Two-day brined catfish is then tempura-battered, fried to order and stacked on a Martin’s potato roll with chipotle tartar sauce and shredded purple cabbage. It’s hefty enough to justify ordering another drink ($15). The fries are tossed in the Dirty Laundry spice mix of toasted and ground ancho chile, white pepper, garlic powder and salt ($8).

 

A basket of churros
Made from a pre-batched gluten-free batter, the churros hit the deep fryer to order, emerging golden and crisp before being tossed in cinnamon sugar. They’re served with a classic salted caramel sauce and an airy whipped cheese foam made from cream cheese, whipping cream, salt and sugar. $12
The drinks

It’s a high-volume cocktail program that riffs on well-built party drinks with a wink of dirrrty (so, delightfully trashy). Things like lychee martinis, piña coladas and even ’80s throwbacks like the Singapore Sling. But Goodfellow’s so-called cocktail nerdery isn’t entirely absent. Case in point: the Lunch, a Tex-Mex–inspired concoction that introduces tequila to cucumber, corn, guacamole, lime and spice.

A margarita
This classic two-ounce margarita pairs Triple Sec and tequila with lime “super juice,” a sustainable hack that coaxes maximum flavour and yield from limes by blending peels with citric and malic acids, water,and juice. From there, Goodfellow plans to run with it, promising to build out a rainbow of margarita riffs including bubblegum, cereal, mango and—somehow—dirt and rain. $15

 

A lychee martini
This classic lychee martini blends Dillon’s vodka with subtly complex Carpano dry vermouth and Soho lychee liqueur. Goodfellow says he’s traded in his King West hat for a Queen West one—bartender shorthand for a recalibrated ratio that favours a dry drink over a sweet one. $15

 

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A cocktail is poured from a mixing glass into a glass
A clear cocktail in a lowball
Off his upcoming signature menu, this cocktail layers gin and fino sherry with a house-made distillate of cacao, tomato, wakame and Goodfellow’s own homegrown greens—plus a soil distillate, also from his garden. The goal: a glass that tastes like spring. It arrives topped with tarragon microgreens. $19

 

A bartender chips a large ice cube
The space

The 2,200-square-foot room (there’s an extra 1,000 on the patio) is centred around a nearly 360-degree bar, and is decked out in offbeat vintage finds, dimpled glass granny lamps and high-top seating. It falls somewhere between a half-finished basement and an eccentric clubhouse.

The bar at Dirty Laundry, with stained-glass light fixtures overhead
Lime-green bench seating inside Dirty Laundry, a bar on Queen Street West in Toronto
Framed mirrors and artwork hang on the wall at Dirty Laundry in Toronto
The drink menu at the Dirty Laundry

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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