Name: Margo Contact: 600 King St. W., fourth floor, margotoronto.com, @margo.toronto Neighbourhood: King West Owners: Charles Khabouth, Danny Soberano, Fernando Mammoliti and Domenic Oppedisano Chef: Marc Cheng Accessibility: Fully accessible
Clio, a posh members-only club complete with a private cinema and rooftop lounge, opened in late 2021. Its fourth-floor restaurant initially had a globally inspired menu and, like the rest of the club, was accessible only to members. But, in late April, the restaurant rebranded with a new Mediterranean concept—and, to inject new energy into the space, opened to the public for dinner and Sunday brunch. It’s called Margo, after owner Charles Khabouth’s late mother. “She loved flowers and the colour yellow,” says Khabouth, sitting under a luxurious arching floral installation. “This restaurant is an homage to her.”
Whether you’re curious about the club or just in the mood for mezze and a seafood tower, Margo will prove an obliging destination. Members do get priority reservations plus food and beverage perks, but now there’s nothing stopping the rest of us from getting in on the action.
The food
Mediterranean cuisine is a broad frame here—the menu takes cues all the way from the Iberian Peninsula to Egypt and Lebanon. Naturally, seafood is a focal point, especially in the mezze selection. There’s hamachi crudo laced with bergamot aioli, olive oil and spicy house-made zhug; tuna tartare with gooseberry and calamansi mayo; and a gorgeous whole sea bream with punchy lemon dressing. There’s also a great deal of turf to balance out the menu’s surf, including a few hefty steaks and a whole Cornish hen roasted in house-made lemon harissa. These dishes brim with the brightness and kaleidoscopic colours of Mediterranean cuisine, boosted with the epicurean opulence you’d expect from the kitchen of a private club.
Here we have a three-dip spread served with charred, za’atar-sprinkled house-made pita for dipping. On the left is mutabal, a creamy eggplant dip with sumac and pomegranate; in the middle, muhammara of walnut, pomegranate and roasted peppers; and finally a smooth, clean blend of yellow split peas, garlic, sumac and sweet Arbequina olive oil. $28
Roasted beets in a puddle of garlic labneh are sprinkled with crunchy pistachios and drizzled with olive oil and chimichurri. They come with crisp cups of dill-garnished endive for scooping. $18
Hamachi crudo dotted with jalapeno-and-cilantro-heavy zhug, olive oil, lemon-and-jalapeno-marinated red onion, bergamot aioli, red chili paste, and radish. The move is to grab the roasted clementine half and squeeze the juice over everything. $25
Here we have tender grilled Spanish octopus served on potato pavé—thin spud sheets laced with oregano and lemon juice—and tossed with a salsa of Castelvetrano olives, sun-dried tomato, garlic and shallot. $27
Koshari, Egypt’s national dish, is a mix of rice, lentils and pasta available in myriad variations. In this one, toasted Spanish fideo—a thin, vermicelli-like noodle—subs in for the typical macaroni. Shiitake, toum (a robust garlic aioli), green lentils, lemon zest and a black truffle finish make for a satisfying, completely vegan side. $24
Saganaki, drizzled with ouzo and set alight tableside, comes with lemon and crusty grilled bread. $16
Charcoal-grilled whole sea bream doesn’t need much to be its best self—here, it’s served with lemon juice, olive, parsley and more lemon (grilled this time) and finished simply with microgreens. This is the sort of confident restraint that quality seafood deserves. $48
A whole Cornish hen roasted in a house harissa marinade is served with delightful little roasted onion boats filled with yogurt-enriched peppercorn jus. $48
A play on mille-feuille, this is a stacked blueberry kataifi cheesecake with a yogurt ganache and fine strands of Greek kataifi pastry. $17
At first glance, this looks like a whole lemon on a cracker…
It is, in fact, yuzu cream with lemon curd moulded into a convincing replica, complete with lumps and bumps, all dipped in white chocolate, coated in yellow cocoa butter and served on lemon crumble with cocoa nibs. It’s far from just a gimmick—the plush, creamy filling is borderline addictive. $19
House-made syrups, purées and infusions form the gastronomic foundation of Margo’s fun cocktail list. There’s a sangria amped up with strawberry purée and a crisp calamansi mocktail with cucumber syrup—all with whimsical flourishes to match Clio’s decor. The extensive wine list—helpfully laid out in descriptive categories like “medium and versatile” or “fun and playful”—focuses on the Mediterranean region, including Greek varietals from Thrace and Santorini.
If you like margaritas, strap in for the Travelling Light. This one gets a smoky hit from Sombra mezcal, which is mixed with Don Julio tequila, Cointreau, cucumber, and a hint of ginger and lime. $19
The Rendezvous is an aromatic gin-based blend of Tanqueray, St-Germain, mint, lavender, lemon and butterfly pea flower. $17
Front and centre is the Bloom, one of Margo’s mocktails. Juniper- and hibiscus-infused Ceder’s Rose zero-proof “liquor” is mixed with fig, lime, tangerine and orange syrup, and grapefruit soda. It’s floral and refreshing. $12
The space
The street entrance to Clio is a relatively discreet black door. Once inside, hit the entry buzzer and take the elevator up to the fourth floor. A lavish, vivid floral installation lines the ceiling and trails down the walls of Margo’s entryway, hanging over lavender tables lined with teal armchairs. Farther in, the mood goes from Mediterranean garden paradise to a comfortably chic resto-lounge lined with playful art and plush slate-grey booths around a big central bar. Soon to come: a sunny rooftop patio.
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