What’s on the menu at Campechano, the Toronto taqueria’s new Little Italy location
Contact: 460 College St., campechano.ca, @campechano_to
Neighbourhood: Little Italy
Owners: Raena Fisher, Daniel Roe (Campechano, Good Hombres)
Chef: Daniel Roe
Seating: 50 indoors, 35 outdoors
Covid-19 safety measures: Frequent sanitization, indoor mask policy, physically distanced tables, dividers between booths, contact tracing
Accessibility: Not accessible
The popular taqueria’s second location is bigger than the original Adelaide St. spot, but the culinary through line remains the same: for Roe, everything rests on the quality of the tortillas. The restaurant imports heirloom corn from Mexico—which is less sweet than most North American varieties—and nixtamalizes it (a process that enhances its flavour and nutritional value) on site.
Tortillas are made fresh throughout the day, and never reheated; if you order three tacos, you’ll get them one at a time to ensure they’re hot when they hit your palate. Toppings are thoughtful and restrained—typically just a few good ingredients treated with care, like house chorizo made from local pork, tender beer-battered haddock, or a simple, balanced avocado salsa. The menu always features ceviche, too. Right now, it’s made of super-fresh sea bass.
Tequila and mezcal get top billing on the cocktail menu. The drinks are unfussy and approachable—think margaritas and mojitos—but with fun flourishes, like a piña mojito made with pineapple and coconut rum. There’s a tight beer selection, including rotating local and Mexican varieties. Soft drinks include Topo Chico (if you know you know), Squirt and Mexican Coke.
Soft light warms the dining room, which is lined by booth seating. The vibes are chill and homey, with a few fun industrial elements mixed in, like green enamel-coated lights that (fun fact) are made from the same material as the plates. There’s a wooden plank depicting the Virgin Mary, and knick-knacks—a model VW Beetle car, bottles of Mexican Coke—lining the windows. Outside, a street-facing patio and some CafeTO tables make summer nights count.