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Food & Drink

Geary Avenue’s new spa serves a sauerkraut martini

Toronto’s hippest strip now has a hammam with an on-site restaurant

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A person walks through a sauna
Photo by Meto Asi

You can find just about every kind of comfort food on Geary Avenue—burgers, pizza, pasta. But the trendy street’s latest addition, Sana (pronounced “sauna”), is offering comfort of another kind. It’s a vibey banya that’s part moody bathhouse, part eastern European–inspired bar and restaurant.

It’s run by founders Jamie Webster, Malcolm Levy and wellness adviser Rebecca Nicholson. They envisioned a convivial place—chatting is actually encouraged—where visitors can sauna-hop, cold-plunge, steam, sip tea, and then wander down to the secluded heated patio for a snack and a cocktail.

A woman in a cold plunge bath at Sana
Photo by Anthony Tuccito

Related: Amelia’s Market, a Geary Avenue grocer selling local goods and light lunches

People gather in a sauna
Photo by Anthony Tuccito

Unlike its modern bathhouse cousins, Sana is skipping structured classes for the moment. “We’re waiting to see what the neighbourhood wants,” says Nicholson. “But every now and then I’ll be offering micro and macro experiences, like group meditation, breathwork, gua sha or dowel massage.”

A day at your average spa can make your savings account sweat, so the Sana team was keen to match the price of the Russian and Turkish banyas around the GTA. An “unhurried stay”—which is a gentle three hours of use—goes for $60, or just $40 during off-peak weekday hours from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. “The city is getting so expensive,” says Webster. “It was important to us to have inclusive pricing so that a wide array of people from all kinds of communities feel invited.”

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The all-season patio at Sana, a spa in Toronto
The all-season patio. Photo by Michael Boatman

 

The bar at Sana, a spa in Toronto
And the bar. Photo by Michael Boatman

Related: What’s on the menu at General Public, Jen Agg’s gorgeous new restaurant on Geary

People gather at the bar at Sana
Photo by Anthony Tuccito

Webster has brought in goods from Canadian artisans, like custom bath towels and robes hand-dyed by Toronto’s Brian Mendoza, exclusive swim suits by Bather and Beth Richards, and exclusive scents from a Grasse-trained perfumer. Levy, meanwhile, has created a nearly hypnotic sonic space, with high-fidelity speakers that play serenity-inducing undertones to match the mood of the day.

As for the restaurant, head chef Mikey Wyspianski, who recently ran the successful pop-up series Here and There, put together a snacky menu of cortisol-dropping eastern European–ish classics. “I grew up eating dodgy pierogies in church basements,” says Wyspianski. “So I started experimenting with more sentimental dishes at my pop-ups, and now they feel like they really suit the menu here.”

The beverage program includes four quirky house takes on classic cocktails as well as a short list of natural wines that will eventually be exclusively from Georgia, Slovenia and Slovakia. There’s also fresh-pressed juice from Collingwood for those skipping the booze because their body is a temple and all that.

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The only catch? The restaurant comes with a dress code: a Sana robe—only spa guests can snag a seat here.

211 Geary Ave., sanasana.ca, @sanasana.ca

A lineup of cocktails at Sana, a spa and restaurant in Toronto
From left: the Honey-Ginger Highball, a blend of Toki Japanese whisky, Krupnik, ginger and soda ($18); the Banana Boulevardier, made with Hennessy VS, Bearface triple-oak whisky, Amaro Averna, Banane du Brésil and scotch ($20); the Eastern Martini, a mix of Luksusowa vodka, dry vermouth and sauerkraut with a gherkin garnish ($16); and the Sana Paloma, made with Tromba Blanco tequila, Del Maguey mezcal, Campari, grapefruit and soda ($18). Photo by Sid Tangerine

 

A plate of meat and cheese with a basket of bread at Sana
One of three banya boards, the kielbasa plate comes with truffle gouda, rosemary sheep’s cheese, Tymek’s pickles, sauerkraut, whipped butter and toasted heritage rye from Robinson Bread. $23 (or $123 with the addition of caviar). Photo by Sid Tangerine

 

Steak tartare with toasted bread
Steak tartare may fall slightly outside of eastern European classics, but it’s a Toronto favourite, so it made the menu. Sana’s version comes with roasted garlic mayo, Polish dill pickles and fresh dill. $24. Photo by Sid Tangerine

 

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Mushroom schnitzel and pierogies
Up top is the hen-of-the-woods mushroom schnitzel with lemon shallot and rye crumbs ($21), and below we have pierogies made with a spring onion dough and stuffed with Yukon Gold mash, ricotta, ginger and a herbaceous béchamel ($17). Pierogies will be a menu mainstay, but Wyspianski plans to change them up each season. Photo by Sid Tangerine

 

New York–style cheesecake with raspberry compote
Photo by Sid Tangerine

Lindsey King is a Toronto-based writer and editor whose work can be found in Toronto Life, Maclean’s, Canada’s 100 Best and more. She is interested in arts and culture, food and drink, architecture, design, and real estate stories

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