Sort-of Secret: Amelia’s Market, a Geary Avenue grocer selling local goods and light lunches

The sort-of secret: Amelia’s Market, an independent market that specializes in Ontario produce, locally made pantry products, and Canadian wine, cheese and charcuterie (as well as light lunches) You may have heard of it if: You’ve been following the influx of cool businesses on the trendy street But you probably haven’t tried it because: It’s actually tucked away on Westmoreland, away from the hustle and bustle of Geary

Amelia’s Market, housed in the former Tulip Variety space just off of Geary, is a one-stop shop, offering local and Canadian goods as well as a selection of lunch plates to stay or go. Partners Aaron Brandolino (La Palma, Archive) and Andrea Thomas opened the casual 18-seat space last August, with a goal to build something they felt the neighbourhood was missing. “Andrea and I have lived in the area since 2017, and it’s amazing to see Geary bubbling with amazing new places,” says Brandolino. “But we wanted to open a place we needed—somewhere to buy great produce and a hunk of good cheese.” And since opening, they’ve added more than just fresh veggies and cheese.

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Brandolino has bounced around the food industry in Ontario since he was 14 years old, working just about every front- and back-of-house position there is. In 2015, he and Thomas spent four months in Nova Scotia, renovating a cottage while growing a large vegetable garden, and he developed a passion for the farm-to-table movement. After moving back home, he stayed with food, and around 2019, he started working at Archive under head chef Ian Leiperts. He was eager to immerse himself in the world of wine, cheese and charcuterie—and if you ask Brandolino about any of those three things today, it shows.

When Leiperts left, in 2020, to open Wildcat in Hamilton, Brandolino became the sole chef, so he had the chance to work directly with farmers and local distributors. “After ordering from thoughtful producers for Archive, like 100km Foods and Broadfork Produce, I started thinking about how easy it could be to order goods in big quantities and pass on the bulk savings to customers—letting local produce be comparable in price to what you’d find at a big box grocer,” says Brandolino.

In 2024, with a baby on the way, Brandolino needed a job that offered better work-life balance and didn’t keep him so late every night. “I was considering a few alternatives for work when I saw that the Tulip’s space was available,” says Brandolino. “Andrea and I loved the Tulip. We had a business plan, but owning our own spot still felt like a pipe dream. Then, one night around 1:30 a.m., we impulsively filled out the rental application form, not expecting to hear back.” But they did hear back, and they went to look at the space the very next day. After taking the keys last May, with the help of family and friends, the couple updated the space. They installed walk-in and display fridges and built shelving units, fruit carts and a bar using pine that had been aging in Brandolino’s nonno’s garage since the ’60s. They also added a large communal table and benches out front, where guests can sit when the weather finally allows it.

Gracing those pine shelves is a familiar mix of fresh produce, sourced from Canada when possible, plus some rare finds depending on the season. Right now, that means things like cellared shallots and garlic and greenhouse-grown eggplants and red pepper. Pantry staples include Diamond kosher salt, Molino olive oils, Rosewood honey, Capirete sherry vinegar and, notably, some of the only beans and legumes Canada can grow. Amelia’s also makes a few items in house—pickles, preserves, broth—and stocks baked goods from Breadhead and Robinson Bread.

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Where the magic happens, though, is at the cheese counter. Amelia’s stocks a curated selection of about two dozen cheeses from around the world. In particular, Brandolino has a soft spot for creamy washed-rind varieties from Quebec. “They’re weird and so identifiable,” he says. “And they hold their own on any board, even next to cheese from France.” To complete a grazing board, there are around 20 cured meats, more than half of which are cured in house, including lonzino, coppa and duck prosciutto.

All the aforementioned produce, pantry supplies and display-case goodness informs Amelia’s small but mighty lunch menu. Naturally, there are cheese and meat plates as well as olives and pickles to nibble on at happy hour. Brandolino designs the rest of the menu using any ingredients that are especially abundant. There’s almost always a feature sandwich and a rotating soup.

The plan is to offer dinner in the near future. For now, they’re keeping busy with ticketed tasting table nights, guided workshops and happy hours on Wednesdays through Saturdays, with wine and beer available by the glass—making it a community hub for snacking, sipping and staying awhile.

Amelia’s Market, 340 Westmoreland Ave. N., ameliasmarket.ca, @ameliasmarket340