/
1x
Advertisement
Proudly Canadian, obsessively Toronto. Subscribe to Toronto Life!
Food & Drink

Review: meticulous dishes and whimsical decor at Woods in St. Lawrence Market

By Toronto Life
Copy link
Review: Woods, Marky and Sparky's, Fika
(Image: Emma McIntyre)

Woods ★★★ 45 Colborne St., 416-214-9918

We’ve updated our star ratings system since this article was first published. Read more about the change here, and find the up-to-date rating in our restaurant listings.

Chef Bruce Woods, who made his name with precise Italian cooking at power restaurants like Centro and Modus, has opened his first solo place in the room formerly occupied by Colborne Lane, which closed last February.

While many hip new menus highlight offal and bone luges, Woods has designed a comparatively conservative lineup: luxe chicken cordon bleu, dry-aged rib-eye, spaghetti with oversized meatballs and a thick, six-ounce Alberta bison burger on a pillow-soft milk bun. His cooking is assured and exacting, as when he balances the brine of a seared Digby scallop with an earthy parsnip purée and salty cubes of corned beef cheek, or ratchets up the indulgence of foie gras with a sweet Saskatoon berry compote. The decor—banquettes upholstered in forest print, a tree-branch chandelier that could have been airlifted from the Shire—suggests even the straightest-laced chef can’t resist a little whimsy.

NEVER MISS A TORONTO LIFE STORY

Sign up for Table Talk, our free newsletter with essential food and drink stories.

By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy.
You may unsubscribe at any time.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Advertisement
Advertisement

Big Stories

Inside the rise and fall of the Vaulter Bandit, the 21st century’s most notorious bank robber
Deep Dives

Inside the rise and fall of the Vaulter Bandit, the 21st century’s most notorious bank robber

Inside the Latest Issue

The June issue of Toronto Life features our annual ranking of the best new restaurants. Plus, our obsessive coverage of everything that matters now in the city.