Taqueria Gus

It’s a taco truth that they always taste better eaten standing, moments after they’ve been assembled, ideally before the tortilla soaks up too much salsa or meat grease and falls apart. At Gus, a spinoff of nearby Mexican street-food spot La Chilaca, you have your pick of stools, but the prime position is next to the door, where there’s a view of the never-dull Kensington Market parade. The taco options are fairly standard—barbacoa, pastor, carnitas and so on—but the handmade corn tortillas are uncommonly tender, the guac bright and fresh, and everything is grilled, fried and assembled with precision. The best option, based on my careful study, is pescado, usually made with swordfish from the market, lightly spiced with chili and paprika, and cradling a ripe spear of pineapple. You have your choice of ladle-your-own salsas, plus a full fridge of fruity Jarritos—Mexico’s national soft drink—to wash it all down.

Taqueria Gus, 255 August St., tacosgus.ca

Now available for pickup and delivery using Uber Eats, DoorDash and Skip The Dishes.