Cabbagetown’s new Taiwanese snack bar is more of a rowdy pit stop than a dining destination. From the long menu, zero in on pig’s ears, served in delicate cured strips and seasoned with chili oil; thick morsels of squid coated in a subtly sweet batter and fried to a perfect crisp; and chunks of chicken tossed with a fiery combination of scallions, green pepper, dried red chilies and Sichuan peppercorns. The OG Bao is disappointing, though: the stale bun overwhelms the thin slices of overcooked five-spice pork. And
on a recent visit, the much-hyped fried chicken was sold out by 7:30 p.m.