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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Ceci Bar, O&B’s colourful new cantina

Including vegetarian takes on chicharron, birria tacos and chaufa fried rice

By Helen Jacob| Photography by Jelena Subotic
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A spread of Latin dishes and drinks

Name: Ceci Bar Contact: 33 Yonge St., unit 101, cecibar.com, @cecibar.to
Neighbourhood: St. Lawrence Previously: O&B’s Café Grill Owner: Oliver & Bonacini Chefs: District executive chef Andrew Piccinin, chef de cuisine Juan Alvarez (Rosalinda) Accessibility: Fully accessible

Oliver and Bonacini has transformed what was once O&B’s Café Grill into a vibrant, colourful cantina serving pan-Latin dishes. Named after corporate executive chef Anthony Walsh’s first daughter, Cecilia, Ceci Bar is a more youthful take on Leña, the restaurant brand’s more formal South American spot up the street. Where Leña is an invitation for a quiet sit-down dinner at Abuela’s house, Ceci Bar caters to a younger, livelier and louder crowd.

Ceci Bar chef de cuisine Juan Alvarez and district executive chef Andrew Piccinin, in front of a spread of dishes and drinks
Chef de cuisine Juan Alvarez and district executive chef Andrew Piccinin after eating some of their dragon breath popcorn
The Food

The menu is centred around inventive pan-Latin snacks, small plates and family-style mains, like a 36-ounce rib-eye parrilla or a whole Peruvian-style chicken. Despite those two dishes, much of the menu is vegetarian and can even be made vegan with a modification or two. Piccinin understands that being in the hospitality business means inviting everyone to the table. “One thing we’re good at is managing allergies as best as possible,” he says. “A good friend of mine was recently diagnosed as celiac and stopped going out to restaurants because of bad interactions with the food. But they were able to come here for dinner.” As former head chef at plant-based Mexican restaurant Rosalinda, Alvarez brings his knowledge, and together they cook up some beautiful, complex vegetarian dishes. Itziar Hernandez, Alvarez’s wife, develops the desserts at Ceci’s and is also the pastry chef for neighbouring Biff’s Bistro.

Related: What’s on the menu at Biff’s Bistro, the second coming of O&B’s long-running French restaurant

A bowl of smoking popcorn
Palomites de dragón, or dragon breath popcorn, is a little bit sweet, spicy, salty and (thanks to nutritional yeast) surprisingly cheesy. Liquid nitrogen smoke is trapped in every kernel, so the smoke show lasts a while. $9

 

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Guacamole with tortilla and root vegetable chips
Smashed avocado (essentially guacamole) is served with freshly fried corn tortillas and an array of tropical chips. The selection pictured includes cassava, taro, plantain and sweet potato chips. $15

 

Cassava chicharrón
Cassava chicharron is a vegetarian take on the popular (typically porky) snack. The cassava is coloured with a little bit of achiote paste to mimic the pale pink colour of pork rinds, then served with lime aïoli, pickled jalapeños and onion escabeche. The dish is finished with a dusting of aji spice—a seasoned salt that provides an acidic punch. $9

 

A bowl of mahi-mahi ceviche
The mahi-mahi in this ceviche is cooked briefly in acid, crudo style, then dressed in leche de tigre and dusted with a little bit of burnt cinnamon and aji pepper emulsion. On top: shredded carrot, ripe mango and charred pineapple. $18

 

Ancho-glazed pork belly bites
Ancho-glazed pork belly bites are Ceci’s answer to chicken wings. Pork belly is cured overnight, cooked sous-vide for another 12 hours, pressed, then cubed. The pieces are then dusted with a little bit of cassava flour and deep-fried until crispy. After a dunk in some house-made ancho-barbecue glaze, they’re skewered with pickled guindilla peppers, olives and marinated white anchovies. $17

 

Mushroom birria tacos
Meatless birria tacos are stuffed with roasted marinated porcini mushrooms, salsa verde, cotija and shredded green cabbage. Each corn tortilla is encased in a golden cheese crust and served alongside a mushroom-based broth for dipping (also available without cheese for a vegan version). $16

 

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Cauliflower chaufa rice
For the cauliflower chaufa fried rice, florets of the cruciferous veggie are brined, steamed and then roasted with an adobo-ancho barbecue sauce. The brown rice, which gives the dish a nutty flavour, is pan-fried with green pepper sofrito. Pickles, onion escabeche and chicory are tossed in, along with some curly endive and red dandelion. $26 (add a fried egg for an extra $4)

 

A whole Peruvian chicken, served in a skillet alongside a glass of red wine
The whole Peruvian chicken and rice is a meal for two (very hungry) people. The bird is brined and roasted for over two hours, then chopped up and cooked paella-style over broth-cooked rice. It’s all topped with charred corn salsa, red onion escabeche, radish and herbs. $59

 

Basque-style cheesecake
For dessert, a slice of Basque cheesecake enveloped in a caramelized crust sits in a pool of haskap berry compote that gets a zing from a squirt of lime. $15

 

Two paletas in glass dishes
Paleta flavours will rotate based on what’s in season. Here we have haskap-lime on the left and sea buckthorn with ginger and honey on the right. $8 each

 

A person pours a shot of tequila over a paleta in a glass dish
Add a shot of Sauza silver tequila for an additional $9
The Drinks

Whenever dishes migrate to a new region, the way they’re made changes subtly to adapt to different tastes and available ingredients. For Ceci’s cocktails, GM Isabel Garcia Roig endeavours to avoid that. “I wanted to make classic drinks the way you would enjoy them in their country of origin,” she says. Where most people shake up simple syrup and mint in mojitos, Roig says they were originally made with granulated sugar and spearmint, then stirred. And the bar doesn’t use any fruit juice in sangria. “You actually use a bunch of different liquors, wine and some sort of soda. Personally, I like orange Fanta,” she says. Guests can always ask to have their drink made the way they like, but Roig wanted to make sure they at least have the option to try it in its original form. Plenty of no- and low-alcohol options are also available.

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Related: Toronto bars are giving sangria—the ultimate summer sipper—a glow-up

A blackberry daiquiri
The blackberry daiquiri is a blended concoction of Havana Club three-year-old white rum, Malibu rum, coconut, pineapple and lime. $18

 

A margarita made with mezcal and tequila
The Mezcalita is made with Agua Santa mezcal, Espolon reposado tequila, Triple Sec and lime. On the side of the glass: a smudge of sparkling black lava salt. $19

 

A cocktail made with sherry, strawberry gin and sparkling wine
The Fina Rosa is made with Tio Pepe fino sherry, Dillon’s strawberry gin, sparkling wine, Tiki bitters, guava and strawberry rose syrup. $20

 

A bartender pours a drink from a shaker into a glass
The Space

Solid Design Creative combined design elements from Central and South America to create a punchy tropical vibe. Lampshades handcrafted by Colombian artists using recycled bottles dangle above the main dining area. In another room, a swooping Peruvian textile is the focal point. Behind the bar is a colourful mosaic of broken tile and vintage ceramics, and other walls are adorned with hand-painted murals depicting flowers and plants native to Latin America. The covered street-side patio seats a whopping 136 guests and serves as a cheerful space for after-work drinks, rain or shine.

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The colourful main dining room of Ceci Bar in Toronto
A colourful mosaic decorates the wall behind a bar
A colourful mural of flowers decorates one wall at Ceci Bar in Toronto
A vibrant main dining room and bar in a restaurant in Toronto
A shelf filled with bottles of wine
Lampshades made from recycled bottles hang from the ceiling of a restaurant's dining room
Draped Peruvian textiles hang from the ceiling of Ceci Bar in Toronto
The colourful streetside patio at Ceci Bar in Toronto
Colourful umbrellas and tables on a streetside patio
Glass partitions separate a streetside patio from the sidewalk

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