The US tariffs are coming for your espresso martini

The espresso martini has been having a moment in Toronto for a while now, with bartenders across the city leaning on their La Marzocco machines to make multiples of the retro cocktail, night after night. But there’s a problem: Kahlúa, the classic coffee liqueur and a staple component of the espresso martini, is no longer available at the LCBO: in response to the US tariffs, Ontario has pulled Kahlúa off its liquor store shelves despite its Mexican roots. (The French-owned company makes the stuff in Veracruz, but the bottles Canada typically imports are produced for, and shipped to us from, a New York–based operation.)

Now, Toronto bars are forced to get creative. Here, eight bartenders on how they’re handling the shake-up and proving that—even without its missing ingredient—the espresso martini isn’t going anywhere.

Related: Canadian-made substitutes for American beer, wine and spirits

XXX

Tucked beneath its buzzy Indonesian sister restaurant, Little Sister Portland, XXX is a moody basement speakeasy. The bar here is run by H (yes, that’s what he goes by), who’s known for his boundary-pushing cocktails and impressive collection of antique glassware. His espresso martini blends Tia Maria, Busker Irish whiskey, organic cane sugar and a finishing spritz of edible tiramisu perfume, served in a whimsical teacup with a stem. “I use Tia Maria when I can get it,” says H. “Otherwise, any decent coffee liqueur available will do—but let’s be honest, Kahlúa and Tia Maria are the only solid options at the LCBO.” He says his customers haven’t noticed the absence of Kahlúa thanks to his focus on maintaining a consistent flavour profile. According to H, the cocktail’s long-lasting appeal comes down to its simplicity: “Vodka and coffee just work. It’s a hard drink to fuck up—though, trust me, many have tried.”

Civil Works

This sleek 1920s-inspired cocktail bar inside Waterworks Food Hall is from the team behind Civil Liberties and Civil Pours, an independently owned distillery that makes ready-to-serve bottled cocktails, which include an espresso martini. Served on tap at Civil Works, it’s made with locally roasted Detour coffee beans, which act as a base for both the espresso and the coffee liqueur—no Kahlúa needed. “People are often hesitant to try a cocktail on tap, but once they see it pour with that silky head of foam, they’re sold,” says partner and senior executive barback Nick Kennedy. Guests can choose between a classic version or the Banoffee Espresso Martini, topped with banana custard foam. So why the ongoing obsession with espresso martinis? “Third-wave coffee culture runs directly into the cocktail renaissance,” says Kennedy. “The espresso martini sits right at that intersection. It’s the perfect kick-starter to an evening.”

Bridgette Bar

The drink list at this cute Calgary import includes a selection of French and Italian wines, local craft beers and inventive cocktails—including an excellent espresso martini, of course. Regional bar manager Makina Labrecque credits the cocktail’s rise in popularity to the growing obsession with coffee. “We’re seeing a spike in people wanting elevated coffee in cafés and at home, and this translates directly to cocktail culture,” says Labrecque. Bridgette Bar isn’t sweating the Kahlúa shortage—once their current stock runs out, they’re planning to make a seamless switch to the coffee liqueur from Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers, a proudly Canadian alternative made just down the QEW in Beamsville.

Bar Koukla

Known for its modern takes on Greek dishes, Bar Koukla also makes a pretty mean espresso martini. While they’re currently using up their current stock of Kahlúa (and saving a few bottles for special occasions), they already have a house-made alternative ready to go. Head bartender Liviu Tabacaru says the Kahlúa shortage has actually been a good thing, giving them a reason to make their own version in-house. “Not only is it more cost-effective, it’s also more flavourful,” says Tabacaru. Their in-house version blends white rum with a coffee syrup made from brewed coffee, sugar, molasses and salt. “It’s the perfect post-work pick-me-up,” he says. “People are tired, but they don’t want a coffee late at night—a boozy coffee is way more fun.”

Bar Pompette

Bar Pompette channels Parisian café vibes, but its cocktail menu is all about innovation. Their espresso martini, the Spiritual Stimulant, ditches coffee liqueur entirely. “We wanted the coffee flavour to only come from the freshly pulled espresso,” says general manager and co-owner Hugo Togni. “I’m not missing Kahlúa. I can guarantee that!” Originally dubbed the Pharmaceutical Stimulant by the drink’s alleged creator, bartender Dick Bradsell, Bar Pompette went with something a little less clinical. “We wanted it to feel more soulful than medicinal,” Togni says. Their version is bold and layered, made with Dillon’s vodka, espresso from Toronto’s Ethica Roasters, a syrup of raw cane sugar cooked with kombu seaweed foraged in Nova Scotia and a few drops of sesame oil.

Harbour 60

The iconic steakhouse Harbour 60 recently got a serious glow-up. Beyond expanding with additional floors that house a new Italian sister restaurant and an event space, the team has also updated the food and cocktail programs. The bar has already made the switch to Bolívar Coffee Liqueur by Forty Creek, made in Grimsby, Ontario. “The main reason we chose Bolívar is due to its exceptional flavour profile,” says mixologist Tiffany Desbiens. “The combination of turbinado syrup, white rum and Bolívar creates a perfect trifecta.” Guest responses have been positive so far—in fact, many haven’t even noticed the shift. “It’s not necessarily the specific brand of coffee liqueur that they care about; it’s the overall experience,” says Desbiens, who believes that the espresso martini’s staying power lies in its blend of caffeine and alcohol. “It’s become the modern-day version of a vodka Red Bull, only elevated.”

Le Tigre

This Barbie-pink cocktail bar that sits above a piano shop is the latest venture from the team behind Cry Baby Gallery. Their specialty is martinis, and their simple-is-best espresso martini is unfussy and balanced from start to finish. “Truth is, we don’t purchase Kahlúa,” says owner Rob Granicolo. “We developed our own coffee liqueur at Cry Baby a few years ago, and it’s been working out great.” Le Tigre’s version is simple: espresso beans, white sugar, water, vodka. “People still come in and rip through espresso martinis every single day,” says Granicolo. “It was a popular drink long before mixology took over 15-plus years ago and made everything super serious. But deliciousness prevailed.”

Short Turn

Just a “short turn” away from its sibling, 416 Snack Bar, this snug streetcar-inspired cocktail bar serves up classics with thoughtful twists. “We’ve actually never used Kahlúa at either of our locations,” says operating partner Taylor Lackie. “At Short Turn, we strive to raise the bar with not only every cocktail but every ingredient that goes into them. We make many of our liqueurs, tinctures and bitters in-house, with real ingredients.” Their espresso martini is a riff on Vietnamese coffee, a rich blend of dark rum, toasted milk bread, house coffee liqueur and sweetened condensed milk. “The classic espresso martini is not only delicious and gives you a buzz to kick off your night—it’s also great as a digestif,” says Lackie. “Plus, the drink’s structure is so simple that it’s easy and fun to mess around with for creative new takes.”