Review: Barnsteiner’s resurrects the hearty European nosh of the Corner House
Barnsteiner’s ★★½ 1 Balmoral Ave., 416-515-0551
For 15 years, Michelle and Herbert Barnsteiner operated the Corner House, a beloved haunt set in a cozy, creaky Casa Loma home. At their new Summerhill restaurant, a moneyed crowd packs the two dining rooms, discussing home wine cellar renos while enjoying hearty European nosh. The menu is big, boasting flatbreads, seafood and house-made pasta, but the best bets are the meat entrées, like the perfectly seared maple-glazed duck breast served on a velvety purée of butternut squash (pictured above), or the rich venison stew, braised for eight hours in a sweet red wine and juniper sauce and paired with excellent hand-shaved spaetzle. Despite the clientele’s deep pockets, the Italian-heavy wine list offers a number of affordable options.
