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Food & Drink

This new ghost kitchen keeps selling out of its Detroit-style pizza

The square slice is having a moment

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Detroit-style pizza from Profound in Toronto
Photo via @profound.pizza/Instagram

With its brick-thick dough base, corners of encrusted cheese and ladlefuls of marinara over the toppings, Detroit-style pies can be total heresy to pizza purists. But, when it’s done well, what it sacrifices in floppy ease and leopard-spotted charring, it makes up for in chewy heft and pops of caramelized mozzarella.

Related: Shake Shack is teaming up with Pizzeria Badiali on three new menu items

Toronto, a city overwhelmingly loyal to New York folds and Neapolitan blisters, hasn’t exactly been overrun by the square stuff—though shout-outs are due to Descendant Pizza, who kicked things off, and Renaissance Pizza, who followed in their saucy footsteps. But, earlier this month, Motor City got another foothold in the 6.

Profound Pizza is the new pop-up parlour running out of the Junction’s Sweet Potato, using the organic supermarket’s commissary kitchen after-hours. It’s run by Ben Grenier and Colin Breen, who say their secret is their ingredients: fresh and thoughtfully sourced toppings, marinara made from ripe San Marzano DOP tomatoes and a 48-hour fermented sourdough that’s cooked in a deep dish pan until the edges go into frico mode.

The menu is tight, with six Italian-ish options including the New Age Margherita and Dante’s Hot Honey. Just a couple of weeks in, there’s already a standout: the Almighty Al Pastor pizza, which comes piled with slow-cooked pork, sweet-savoury chili pineapple and jalapeño, has already been popping up on Instagram pages.

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Related: “Toronto is most characterized by the diversity of our pizzas”—A Q&A with the York University historian who ate 712 slices of pizza for his PhD thesis

The takeout shop is open from 4 p.m. to midnight, with late-night hours on Fridays and Saturdays. But those who immediately drooled at the words “brick-thick dough” will have to wait a few days to order—Toronto went so gung-ho for Profound’s pizzas that Grenier and Breen have sold out. They’re now temporarily closed to regroup and scale up to meet the surprising demand.

Is Toronto falling out of love with Neapolitan and New York–style pies? Or does it have room in its hungry heart for a third pizza personality? We’re just glad it’s not deep-dish.

Lindsey King is a Toronto-based writer and editor whose work can be found in Toronto Life, Maclean’s, Canada’s 100 Best and more. She is interested in arts and culture, food and drink, architecture, design, and real estate stories

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