Five biodynamic wines worth buying now
Five biodynamic wines worth buying now
After years of trial and error by dedicated winemakers, biodynamic bottles are finally coming into their own
Like organic wines, biodynamics are made of grapes grown without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. Biodynamic producers then take natural, biological and holistic farming methods a step further. Early examples were often earthy (in a bad way), as well as sour and bacterial. But over the last decade or so, the best winemakers at some of the most prestigious vineyards have honed their practices and improved quality enormously, to the point where the wines not only measure up to their non-biodynamic counterparts, but often surpass them. Of the wines given a stamp of approval by Demeter, the international biodynamic certification body, these are some of my favourites.
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- <p><strong>$27.95 | Alsace, France | 91 Points</strong></p><br /> Renowned for some of the most opulent wines of Alsace, Zind-Humbrecht is also a biodynamic leader. This dry riesling has splendid aromas of honey, apricot, petrol and spice. It’s spry and elegant, with excellent focus, purity and length. Other Zind-Humbrecht wines are occasionally available at Vintages, and all are biodynamically grown. <em>Vintages 31039</em>
- Zind-Humbrecht 2010 Riesling Turckheim
- Zind-Humbrecht 2010 Riesling Turckheim
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- <p><strong>$34.95 | Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula | 91 Points</strong></p><br /> Inspired by biodynamic producers in Burgundy, owner Moray Tawse has already converted five of his six vineyards, a costly job in humid, mildew-prone Ontario. Also certified organic, this taut, firm, mineral-driven chardonnay is indeed similar to some of Burgundy’s best. Look for pear, citrus and toasty aromas and flavours, but give it a year or two in the cellar. <em>Vintages 111989</em>
- Tawse 2011 Quarry Road Chardonnay
- Tawse 2011 Quarry Road Chardonnay
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- 251948
- <p><strong>$22.95 | Niagara-on-the-Lake | 89 points</strong></p><br /> This mid-weight, smooth and mellow red shows youthful, floral bloom, raspberry fruit, background oak and a touch of cabernet tobacco. The finish is dry, warm and slightly tannic. The vineyard has been certified organic by Pro-Cert, as well as given a gold LEED certification for its energy-conserving design. Best 2014 to 2016. <em>Vintages 193573</em>
- Southbrook 2010 Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon
- Southbrook 2010 Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon
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- <p><strong>$49.95 | Rhône Valley, France | 92 points</strong></p><br /> Chemical-free farming flourishes in the dry climate of southern France, and Michel Chapoutier took his venerable family company down the biodynamic path years before many others. This top Châteauneuf is a classic, with firm balance and structure. The dark fruit and herbal peppery flavours are reserved for now, but there is fine silkiness before the gritty, youthful tannins kick in. Outstanding length. Best 2016 to 2023. <em>Vintages 972331</em>
- M. Chapoutier 2010 La Bernardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape
- M. Chapoutier 2010 La Bernardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape
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- <p><strong>$19.95 | Mendocino County, California | 89 points</strong></p><br /> Bonterra pioneered organic winemaking from its base in Mendocino, an enclave of hippiedom in the ’60s, and has become California’s largest, most respected certified organic wine producer. This is an authentic, balanced merlot with raspberry and sweet plum, plus tobacco, mild chocolate and spice complexities. It’s medium-weight and supple, and the length is very good. <em>Vintages 984724</em>
- Bonterra 2010 Merlot
- Bonterra 2010 Merlot
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These may be good wines, but that has nothing to do with the pseudo-scientific claptrap of biodynamic agriculture.
Art,
Your point is unclear to me. Are you implying that biodynamic agriculture and making good wine have nothing in common or are you saying that poisoning the earth, our water resources and the air we breath require zero accountability? Perhaps you should put your pseudo-scientific claptrap theory to a panel discussion with Bill Redelmeier, Ann Sperling, Moray Tawse, Paul Pender, Olivier Humbrecht, Bill Blue and Michel Chapoutier. By the way, all great picks David.
Michael Godel
Perhaps what Art Tricque is referring to is the use of the Biodynamic calendar to dictate certain vineyard/winery activities or that if you speak to five different biodymic producers they each have a different interpretation of what biodynamic practices must be applied. The primary difference between organic and biodynamic production practices is the “cosmic and stellar” forces that biodynamic producers believe differentiate their wines. To each his or her own beliefs!
Making good wines means following the techniques of making good wines. One can do that and be ecologically-minded too. But it does not require mystical/spiritual mumbo-jumbo. These wines are good because of the first.