Paris Paris

Classic funk broadcast at a civilized volume, exposed brick and beams, and macramé plant baskets give the room a sort of ’70s Scandinavian dream-basement aesthetic. Some in the room have stopped in for charcuterie; others dig in to the wine list, with its emphasis on organic and biodynamic bottles. The rest linger over chef Nicholas Morra’s (Chantecler, La Banane) dishes, featuring French, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese flavours: chicken liver mousse on grilled bread with mushrooms, chicory leaves dressed in vincotto under sheets of shaved ham, or meaty clams in a rich seaweed butter the same colour as the wobbly matcha panna cotta that closes the meal in a bright puddle of passion fruit.

1161 Dundas St. W., 416-535-5656, parisparis.ca