Birreria Volo

Toronto’s funkiest beer list lives at this Little Italy spot run by brothers Tomas and Julian Morana—it’s the more youthful spinoff of the former Bar Volo. The narrow space features a 26-tap bar and a heated back patio, but the atmospherics barely register once the attention turns to what’s in the glass, like a fruity kriek from Belgium’s legendary Cantillon. Tap selections rotate but stay heavy on goses, lambics, saisons and other wild ales, plus Ontario cider and natural wines. The cellared beers are on the pricey side, but it’s worth the odd splurge to sip on something like a honey-spiked, spontaneously fermented ale from Vermont’s Hill Farmstead Brewery. The bar snacks lean into tinned fish, charcuterie and cheese, but there’s also habit-forming fried chicken from neighbouring P.G. Clucks.

612 College St., 416-498-5786,