100 Top Restaurants: #46 – Il Covo

Pass through the heavy Game of Thrones doors and you’ll swear you’ve entered an old Venetian tavern, but this trendy spot is the new home of chef Ryan Campbell and manager-sommelier Giuseppe Marchesini, both last of the Buca brand. The specialty here is cicchetti, the Venetian equivalent of Spanish pinchos—grazing food best consumed while sitting at a bar with a glass of wine. Campbell’s are fancier: golden-fried finger sandwiches of bay scallop and sidestripe shrimp, and tender brisket, slow-braised in a Calabrian licorice liqueur. Downstairs is a wine cellar stacked with interesting Italian finds, like a pleasantly funky unfiltered orange wine from Molise as well as sweeter ones to complement a dainty espresso-flavoured layered sponge cake. 585 College St., 416-530-7585.