100 Top Restaurants: #39 – Buca

You will taste the occasional miracle in the post-industrial space where chef Rob Gentile’s journey to culinary beatification began. Pizza bianca, drizzled with oil and sprinkled with rosemary, warms the soul, but it’s overshadowed by horse tartare with capers, 40-year-old vinegar and fermented ricotta that melds brine, funk, salt and acidity. Every item on the menu has an appealing analog on the expertly curated wine list. 604 King St. W., 416-865-1600.