Check out liquid nitrogen–poached doughnuts and other molecular miracles from a recent Modernist Cuisine demo
John Placko uses goggles while working with liquid nitrogen (Image: Renée Suen)
What’s it like to sear caramel on a -34 °C anti-griddle, poach doughnuts in liquid nitrogen (around -196 °C), or use low temperatures to slow-cook food in vacuum-sealed pouches in a thermal immersion circulator (that’s sous vide for those in the know)? Although they may seem like leftovers from some ’70s sci-fi movie, these modern cooking techniques are starting to move beyond professional kitchens and into homes, buoyed in part by the March release of Nathan Myhrvold ’s staggering six-volume Modernist Cuisine. In honour of the 2,500-page tome, The Cookbook Store hosted a two-hour workshop, which saw many of Toronto’s hottest chefs and industry tastemakers piled into Nella Cucina ’s upstairs cooking studio, including Grant van Gameren (The Black Hoof ), Nick auf der Mauer (Porchetta and Co. ), sommelier Jamie Drummond , Dinah Koo (Koo and Co. ) and Lucy Waverman .
At the sold-out event, John Placko (culinary director of Maple Leaf Foods ) smoked (via a smoking gun), shaved (in a Pacojet), boiled (in liquid nitrogen), squeezed (through silicon tubing), aerated (though a ISI gourmet whip), cooked (in a Thermomix) and pickled (instantly, using compression sealing) a variety of foods, all to show how these sometimes mind-bending techniques can be used in the modern home (provided one has thousands of dollars to spare). Although Modernist Cuisine contains meticulous instructions, Placko notes that it isn’t all rocket science. Most people who have used an immersion stick blender, kitchen scale, pressure cooker or a digital probe thermometer have been exposed to the basics.
Placko also debunked a few commonly accepted culinary practices, such as how to aerate wine and make duck confit. Instead of decanting wine, Modernist Cuisine suggests blitzing a bottle of wine on high for 30 seconds in a blender. Myhrvold’s cookbook also notes that it would also be very difficult to differentiate between duck cooked in a vat of fat from one that has been steam cooked then brushed with duck fat later on.
Attendees were given an opportunity to taste-test many of the demoed products, including watermelon meat, a lemon-less lemon curd and other edible curiosities. While many items were visually dazzling and well received, Waverman noted she enjoyed watching the food being prepared more than the chemical taste some items left on her palate. However, the cookbook author acknowledged that some of the techniques, like sous vide , could be useful in small quantities as part of a larger composed plate.
Chefs like Matt Kantor (Little Kitchen , Secret Pickle Supper Club ), who has experience using modern techniques, attended the event to learn about new equipment. He told us that for him, modern cooking is about getting great quality products to people for, potentially, less money. Van Gameren, whose Black Hoof and Co. opens later this spring, noted that the evening was a celebration of advancement in culinary arts. Although the chef admitted that the techniques are open to abuse, he felt that in moderation and with common sense, they could help make food better. “To be here as a diner and not a chef, this gives you an appreciation when you go out to dinner at Alinea or places like that.”
70065 (Image: Renée Suen) Black Hoof chef Grant van Gameren with cookbook author and <em>Globe and Mail</em> columnist Lucy Waverman. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/VAN-GAMEREN-and-WAVERMAN.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/VAN-GAMEREN-and-WAVERMAN.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/VAN-GAMEREN-and-WAVERMAN.jpg 624 456 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/van-gameren-and-waverman/ van-gameren-and-waverman 0 0
Black Hoof chef Grant van Gameren with cookbook author and Globe and Mail columnist Lucy Waverman.
70063 (Image: Renée Suen) John Placko demonstrating how smoke (via a smoking gun) contained inside a bell jar can be used to season all sorts of foods, from potatoes to lettuce leaves. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/SMOKE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/SMOKE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/SMOKE.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/smoke/ smoke 0 0
John Placko demonstrating how smoke (via a smoking gun) contained inside a bell jar can be used to season all sorts of foods, from potatoes to lettuce leaves.
70061 (Image: Renée Suen) Matt Kantor, chef and owner of Little Kitchen and Secret Pickle Supper Club, recently moved to Toronto and is an avid supporter of using modern techniques in his cooking. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/KANTOR.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/KANTOR.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/KANTOR.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/kantor/ kantor 0 0
Matt Kantor, chef and owner of Little Kitchen and Secret Pickle Supper Club, recently moved to Toronto and is an avid supporter of using modern techniques in his cooking.
70064 (Image: Renée Suen) Mediterranean starter with <em>sous vide</em> octopus, compressed tomato (vacuum sealer), mozzarella powder (Pacojet) and dehydrated olive (dehydrator) with basil oil. Removing water from food concentrates flavour, but also changes texture. In this instance, the octopus was tender, the tomato was dense, the cheese was slushy and the olive crunchy, like a hazelnut. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/STARTER.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/STARTER.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/STARTER.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/starter/ starter 0 0
Mediterranean starter with sous vide octopus, compressed tomato (vacuum sealer), mozzarella powder (Pacojet) and dehydrated olive (dehydrator) with basil oil. Removing water from food concentrates flavour, but also changes texture. In this instance, the octopus was tender, the tomato was dense, the cheese was slushy and the olive crunchy, like a hazelnut.
70054 (Image: Renée Suen) Yogurt crisp (dehydrator), lemon-less lemon curd (using citrus oil) and white chocolate crumbs (aerated, dehydrated white chocolate). Attendees were told to construct their own sweet cracker by squeezing some of the curd over the cracker, then scattering the white chocolate crumbs on top. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHOCOLATE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHOCOLATE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHOCOLATE.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/chocolate-3/ chocolate-3 0 0
Yogurt crisp (dehydrator), lemon-less lemon curd (using citrus oil) and white chocolate crumbs (aerated, dehydrated white chocolate). Attendees were told to construct their own sweet cracker by squeezing some of the curd over the cracker, then scattering the white chocolate crumbs on top.
70051 (Image: Renée Suen) One of the demo attendees squeezes the lemon-less lemon curd onto the sweet dehydrated yogurt cracker. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ASSEMBLY.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ASSEMBLY.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ASSEMBLY.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/assembly/ assembly 0 0
One of the demo attendees squeezes the lemon-less lemon curd onto the sweet dehydrated yogurt cracker.
70059 (Image: Renée Suen) Berry agar jelly noodles (squeezed through silicon tubing) over compressed watermelon (vacuum sealer). Served with “champagne grapes” (grapes that have been carbonated in the ISI gourmet whip). Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FRUIT.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FRUIT.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FRUIT.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/fruit/ fruit 0 0
Berry agar jelly noodles (squeezed through silicon tubing) over compressed watermelon (vacuum sealer). Served with “champagne grapes” (grapes that have been carbonated in the ISI gourmet whip).
70058 (Image: Renée Suen) Doughnut-infused crème anglaise (made in the Thermomix) was aerated into a thick mousse using an ISI gourmet whip, and then poached in liquid nitrogen. The accompanying frozen doughnut hole was served with a pineapple-juice sorbet (Pacojet), flavoured with six mint leaves and no added sugar. The former was like thick, airy ice cream with a thin frozen crust and a chewy centre; the latter like smooth, juicy sorbet. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FROZEN-BALLS.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FROZEN-BALLS.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/FROZEN-BALLS.jpg 624 433 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/frozen-balls/ frozen-balls 0 0
Doughnut-infused crème anglaise (made in the Thermomix) was aerated into a thick mousse using an ISI gourmet whip, and then poached in liquid nitrogen. The accompanying frozen doughnut hole was served with a pineapple-juice sorbet (Pacojet), flavoured with six mint leaves and no added sugar. The former was like thick, airy ice cream with a thin frozen crust and a chewy centre; the latter like smooth, juicy sorbet.
70057 (Image: Renée Suen) Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods) poaches doughnut-infused crème anglaise in liquid nitrogen. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DOUGHNUT.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DOUGHNUT.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DOUGHNUT.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/doughnut-2/ doughnut-2 0 0
Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods) poaches doughnut-infused crème anglaise in liquid nitrogen.
70050 (Image: Renée Suen) Chocolate beads being added to banana-caramel pops. The ice cream lollies were formed on the surface of a -34°C anti-griddle. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ANTIGRIDDLE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ANTIGRIDDLE.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ANTIGRIDDLE.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/antigriddle/ antigriddle 0 0
Chocolate beads being added to banana-caramel pops. The ice cream lollies were formed on the surface of a -34°C anti-griddle.
70060 (Image: Renée Suen) Kevin Jeung (Soignée Catering) “cooking” the banana-caramel pops on the anti-griddle. The medallions were like ice cream pancakes on sticks. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/JEUNG.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/JEUNG.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/JEUNG.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/jeung/ jeung 0 0
Kevin Jeung (Soignée Catering) “cooking” the banana-caramel pops on the anti-griddle. The medallions were like ice cream pancakes on sticks.
70055 (Image: Renée Suen) From left to right: Mary Catherine Anderson (Nella Cucina), Kevin Jeung (Soignée Catering), Alison Fryer (The Cookbook Store), Doug Fletcher (Got It Made Culinary Services), John Placko (Maple Leaf Foods) and Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods). Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DEMO-CREW.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DEMO-CREW.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DEMO-CREW.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/demo-crew/ demo-crew 0 0
From left to right: Mary Catherine Anderson (Nella Cucina), Kevin Jeung (Soignée Catering), Alison Fryer (The Cookbook Store), Doug Fletcher (Got It Made Culinary Services), John Placko (Maple Leaf Foods) and Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods).
70053 (Image: Renée Suen) Some of the food personalities in attendance were Nick auf der Mauer (Porchetta and Co.), sommelier Jamie Drummond and Grant van Gameren (The Black Hoof). Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHEFS.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHEFS.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/CHEFS.jpg 624 454 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/chefs/ chefs 0 0
Some of the food personalities in attendance were Nick auf der Mauer (Porchetta and Co.), sommelier Jamie Drummond and Grant van Gameren (The Black Hoof).
70062 (Image: Renée Suen) John Placko uses goggles while working with liquid nitrogen. Here, he freezes raspberries in the -196 °C liquid before smashing them with a hammer to form the raspberry niblets used in the berry dessert course. His assistant, Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods), warms the finished product in the freezer before service. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/LIQUID-NITROGEN.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/LIQUID-NITROGEN.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/LIQUID-NITROGEN.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/liquid-nitrogen/ liquid-nitrogen 0 0
John Placko uses goggles while working with liquid nitrogen. Here, he freezes raspberries in the -196 °C liquid before smashing them with a hammer to form the raspberry niblets used in the berry dessert course. His assistant, Irene Fong (Maple Leaf Foods), warms the finished product in the freezer before service.
70056 (Image: Renée Suen) Demo attendees make their own mango-and-melon-juice caviar by dribbling juice with a minute quantity of sodium alginate dissolved in it into highly diluted calcium chloride. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DIY.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DIY.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/DIY.jpg 416 624 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/diy/ diy 0 0
Demo attendees make their own mango-and-melon-juice caviar by dribbling juice with a minute quantity of sodium alginate dissolved in it into highly diluted calcium chloride.
70052 (Image: Renée Suen) Not your typical bacon and eggs: toasted baguette strip topped with tomato seeds, bacon powder (Pacojet), parsley gel, a 63°C egg (cooked for an hour) and <em>sous vide</em> king oyster mushrooms. Modernist Cuisine Demonstration https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/BREAKFAST.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/BREAKFAST.jpg https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/BREAKFAST.jpg 624 416 [] https://torontolife.com/food/check-out-liquid-nitrogen-poached-doughnuts-and-other-molecular-miracles-from-a-recent-modernist-cuisine-demo/slide/breakfast/ breakfast 0 0
Not your typical bacon and eggs: toasted baguette strip topped with tomato seeds, bacon powder (Pacojet), parsley gel, a 63°C egg (cooked for an hour) and sous vide king oyster mushrooms.